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Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 10:16 pm
by jmoore65
What size tap do I need?
NPT == National Pipe Thread Taper? Is this is different than my NC tap? Do I need to go find a plumber?
Jim
So THAT's what's wrong with my old miter bar
Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 11:32 am
by nuhobby
Wow,
Good point on the threads inside the miter-bar. On looking I see my oldest one is pretty butchered inside.... I just ordered a new bar and the OEM tapered screws as well.
thanks,
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 1:15 pm
by jmoore65
Bump - to see if anyone can share the size/thread count for the NPT tap.
Jim
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 4:22 pm
by timster68
I have a slight different problem. I can turn the screw really tight, but the miter bar still moves - it never locks in tight. Anyone experience this before?
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 6:06 pm
by perryobear
Jim,
I'm not a machinist but I will give some input and hope others will add to it (or correct me) as needed.
NPT is a tapered thread used primarily for joining pipe and fittings. It is (as you noted) a tapered thread meaning the overall diameter of the thread changes with the depth of the thread. This feature, along with a bit of sealing compound, helps lock the pipe and fittings together to form a pressure-tite seal (not our application). In the case of a 1/4" NPT the thread has, I believe, 18 threads per inch (TPI).
A drill size of 7/16" diameter, or there about, would be used to drill the hole that would accept the 1/4" NPT tap. Remember we are dealing with 1/4"
pipe (i.e., an OD of .54")
NC is a straight thread meaning the diameter of the thread remains the same over its entire length. For a 1/4" NC thread you have 20 TPI (i.e., our old common 1/4-20 bolt). For a 1/4" NF you have 28 TPI.
A #3 drill (about 13/64") would be used to drill the hole to accept a 1/4" NC tap.
As you can see 1/4" NPT in addition to being tapered, is about twice the diameter of a 1/4" NC.
A plumber would certainly own a 1/4" NPT tap, but they are also included in many tap and die sets, so you may have a friend that does a lot of car or other machinery work that might have one in his set.
Last but not least you should be able to buy one individually at a good hardware store.
I will now let others take over while I ponder our miter bar application.
Dennis
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:35 pm
by beeg
jmoore65 wrote:Bump - to see if anyone can share the size/thread count for the NPT tap.
Jim
That size should be on your exploded parts listing.
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 8:47 pm
by perryobear
Hi Jim,
To this point nobody has jumped in to correct me but it appears to me upon further investigation that we should be looking at a 1/8 NPT thread. This thread has a TPI of 27. I was able to easily screw the 1/8 NPT tap into my miter bar about half way as shown in the photos below. I hope someone else can confirm this.
Just remember that since it is a tapered thread, it will matter which way you insert the tap (there is a top and bottom to the miter bar).
I think that my other comments about the NPT tap being much larger than the same fractional size in NC tap stills stands.
Dennis
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 9:44 pm
by ldh
perryobear wrote:Hi Jim,
To this point nobody has jumped in to correct me but it appears to me upon further investigation that we should be looking at a 1/8 NPT thread. This thread has a TPI of 27. I was able to easily screw the 1/8 NPT tap into my miter bar about half way as shown in the photos below. I hope someone else can confirm this.
Dennis
Dennis,
Looks like you have lined the information up well. I would now chase the threads, make sure the tapered screw SS #501401 is correct and usable then dab just a small amount of antiseize grease McMaster-Carr #1279K31 on the taper screw threads with a Q-tip. I have found that a nickles worth of pm on that little taper screw has saved me a lot of grief.
ldh
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 10:04 pm
by jmoore65
Thanks for the followup Dennis!
Jim
Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 11:11 am
by Ed in Tampa
timster68 wrote:I have a slight different problem. I can turn the screw really tight, but the miter bar still moves - it never locks in tight. Anyone experience this before?
Timster68
I was always taught by Shopsmith to tear a stripe of paper and wrap it around my mitre bar in the area of the screw to shim the bar into place. I thought everyone did this.
Ed