Shopsmith Forums

I even take an old milk carton side and bottom and cut a wiring guard the switch mount passes through on a Mark V to shield the switch terminals since your hands go into the headstock for cleaning and maintenance. Shopsmith used a cardboard shield that gets lost or degraded over time.

The 10 series had most everything outside the headstock so your hands don’t get inside them often.

Yes we are instructed to unplug the machines during maintenance but someone in a hurry could forget and the shield is a life saver, literally.

Everett

everettdavis wrote:Since the 10E/10ER have exposed wiring, I would use a segment of the extension cord up and back, and switch both sides, cutting the ground at the switch and heat shrink the wires breaking out at both ends. The motor mount bars will ground the case and you can more easily remove, service the motor or replace the bearings later without disturbing the wiring. Every wire that goes to the motor would be part of that new extension cord.

Hmm... You lost me on that. I'm not quite following what your are trying to explain. Anny chance you can make a diagram of what you are explaining? My wiring currently runs directly to the switch, then from the switch to the motor. That is basically what jsburger said he does, breaking the ground out at the switch and taking it down to the motor mount. I think you are explaining something different, I'm just not following.

Chris

jsburger wrote:I don't think there was any strain relief originally since the Model 10's were sold without a motor. It was up to the user. However a strain relief is absolutely a good idea. It is a bit hard to see in the picture but I just use a zip tie to the motor mount.

I was thinking a loop clamp or something. But a zip tie sounds nice and easy since I don't think I'll find a loop clamp sized appropriately for #12 cable with the right size hole to go over those motor mount screws.

Chriss wrote:

jsburger wrote:I don't think there was any strain relief originally since the Model 10's were sold without a motor. It was up to the user. However a strain relief is absolutely a good idea. It is a bit hard to see in the picture but I just use a zip tie to the motor mount.

I was thinking a loop clamp or something. But a zip tie sounds nice and easy since I don't think I'll find a loop clamp sized appropriately for #12 cable with the right size hole to go over those motor mount screws.

Yup, very easy and you probably already have a zip tie.

Chriss wrote:

everettdavis wrote:Since the 10E/10ER have exposed wiring, I would use a segment of the extension cord up and back, and switch both sides, cutting the ground at the switch and heat shrink the wires breaking out at both ends. The motor mount bars will ground the case and you can more easily remove, service the motor or replace the bearings later without disturbing the wiring. Every wire that goes to the motor would be part of that new extension cord.

Hmm... You lost me on that. I'm not quite following what your are trying to explain. Anny chance you can make a diagram of what you are explaining? My wiring currently runs directly to the switch, then from the switch to the motor. That is basically what jsburger said he does, breaking the ground out at the switch and taking it down to the motor mount. I think you are explaining something different, I'm just not following.

Chris

I think that is what Everett is saying in a different way. The original switch was a double pole single throw. It switched both the hot and the neutral. That is what your switch looks like so don't get confused. Just wire it as you know with the 3 wire grounded cord grounded to the motor mount.

jsburger wrote: Just wire it as you know with the 3 wire grounded cord grounded to the motor mount.

Ok, sounds like a plan.

Similar to what John did, I ran my wires through the slots on the motor mounting plate and attached with a zip tie to provide strain relief.
Of interest is the wire routing on my 10ER dedicated drill press. This is the one with the second logo plate on the back side, believed to be a demonstrator unit. The wire comes in through a hole in the back of the casting, The hole was made before it was painted so presumably done at the factory. Also there is a small nut and machine screw, can't remember if that is for the ground or if it is a strain relief.
I think the next time I rewire one, I will run a long wire to an outlet block (four outlets) on the bench, and just a short wire from the headstock that will plug into that receptacle. That will make it convenient to unplug when doing changeovers and also give a place to plug in lights and small power tools.

Since the motor is likely a 1/2 HP, I think a 14 gauge cord is sufficient if not excessively long. 12-15 ft is adequate IMO. Do use crimped terminals rather than bare wire when terminating.

rpd wrote:Similar to what John did, I ran my wires through the slots on the motor mounting plate and attached with a zip tie to provide strain relief.

Seems simple enough.

JPG wrote:Since the motor is likely a 1/2 HP, I think a 14 gauge cord is sufficient if not excessively long. 12-15 ft is adequate IMO. Do use crimped terminals rather than bare wire when terminating.

I figure I'll go with a 15 ft cord. Probably just go ahead and get 12 gauge. Yep, I'll use crimped terminals.