Shopsmith Forums

Hobbyman2 wrote:I would be concerned about thermal expansion and contraction around the arbor but thats just my .02 .

It happens every year in my unheated garage in Ohio. I can't imagine what it's like for those with garages in North Dakota.

WileyCoyote wrote:

Hobbyman2 wrote:I would be concerned about thermal expansion and contraction around the arbor but thats just my .02 .

It happens every year in my unheated garage in Ohio. I can't imagine what it's like for those with garages in North Dakota.

It's the same only colder. I kept my Shopsmith and all accessories in an unheated garage in the winter for 20 years and it did no harm to it. When I used it, I would first heat the garage for an hour to get it up above 32 degrees. Once I reached that temp, I would start the Shopsmith motor with no load on it and let it run for a few minutes to warm up. It never complained.
Then, 16 years ago I built a shop in my basement where it is heated in winter. Now the Shopsmith no longer has to deal with the cold temps.

Good points , most people who use heat only use enough to warm the glue , I just never found it necessary to do either to remove old sanding disc ? JMO

So I got around to using heat to remove a disk off a ebay 500 style sanding disk and the whole sand paper came up in one piece. There was a tear in the paper but that was there before I started. The disk had some scrapes from a previous owner and a couple of old bits of paper that were left on when the new paper was added. Just never know what you will get buying used.

Anyway it cleaned up pretty well and only took about 7 minutes which included cleaning the back side as well. It looks like the scrapes just took off the finish but didn't leave any burrs. This is my only 500 style disk I have, all the others have been converted to the 510/520 style.
Given my experience it was much more expedient to continue with what I have been doing using a little heat. My favorite is letting the disk set in the sun back side up for a while, it gets hot enough that gloves make it more comfortable to handle at that point. In the winter or rain the oven works or a heat gun on low.

If you are planning on reusing sanding sheets then heat is the only way that seems to work, if you don't care then try the cold but adhesive and residue from the paper is harder to clean up, well at least it was for me.

Ed

FWIW: brake cleaner works great for removing the residual glue after the paper has been removed.

sryoder wrote:FWIW: brake cleaner works great for removing the residual glue after the paper has been removed.

This is interesting. What is the active solvent in brake cleaner? It doesn't leave any oily residue, which would be counter productive to braking. I usually use naptha to remove adhesive residue. I think I have a can of brake cleaner. I will try it the next time. Thanks.

gac5ss wrote: This is interesting. What is the active solvent in brake cleaner? It doesn't leave any oily residue, which would be counter productive to braking. I usually use naptha to remove adhesive residue. I think I have a can of brake cleaner. I will try it the next time. Thanks.

And the answer is.
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... CfwKSNKpSL

rpd wrote:

gac5ss wrote: This is interesting. What is the active solvent in brake cleaner? It doesn't leave any oily residue, which would be counter productive to braking. I usually use naptha to remove adhesive residue. I think I have a can of brake cleaner. I will try it the next time. Thanks.

And the answer is.
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... CfwKSNKpSL

Dry cleaning fluid. I wonder if the dlimonene helps as well.

I still use heat. Frequently in Texas it is a bright sunny day and my Charcoal Grill / Smoker assembly is not in use.

Anyone who has touched a flat black grill on a sunny day can tell you, or read the temperature gauge, knows it's hotter than the outside air by a bunch inside.

I lay the disc abrasive side down on the grill surface, close it and walk away. In 30 minutes or less, I have to use a glove to pick it up, and the adhesive is softened and lets me pull off the abrasive. I acquired one that had an old dried out adhesive and it worked but took a little longer.

It's green, uses no energy, no chemicals, and works every time I have tried it. You're going to brush and oil the grill next time before you use it anyway so it hurts nothing to to try it.

Don't leave an aluminum early disk in very long, and certainly don't build a fire in the fire box without seeing if something is inside the grill. My neighbor down the street did that a few years ago, and found someone set a bottle of grill lighter fluid in the smoke chamber rack on one of the shelves. It exploded, destroying his grill, parts of his fence, set the fence and dry grass on fire. He was inside when it happened. Took his dog three months to go back to that side of the back yard again.