Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:I don't want to be nit-picking (your words not mine), but Tim, then you would not be jointing on a 4" jointer. You would be surface planing on the planer.

And, of course, that is what you should be doing! Beats surface planing on the jointer!:p

I would look at the end grain on the boards. If you have plain sawn lumber you would probably be better off ripping it and gluing up the boards to minimize the chance of cupping.

Chuck,

Your detailed instructions actually worked. It took several practising attempts and I finally ended up with what you described. I took a hand plane to the ridge, then checked for flatness and square. I was shocked, I actually ended up with 4 square. But, that was with a piece that was 4-1/2 in. by 4 ft. I don't think I could get the same results with 6" x 6'

I think, I'll just save the Mahogany for another project. For the wall mounted shop cabinet, I see Home Depot has 3/4" sanded and also 3/4" Birch Plywood on sale.

Glad it worked for you, Pat! I agree with your decision on the 6 ft long piece of mahogany. Although I have used the SS jointer to joint edges on 6 ft. rough 5/4 poplar, that length/weight is a chore to handle. In my mind it is the weight of the board more than length that effects this.

However, as you have discovered, wider boards (6" is the maximum I've done) can be successfully face jointed. My memory has it - 3 or 4 feet is the longest I have done on face jointing. When trying this on a 6" wide board, the ridge just moves from side to side. I've never been able to avoid the small ridge, however it is easy to remove.

All of the considerations of SAFETY and grain orientation must be taken under advisement before trying this operation.

I am so new the the Mark V it's scary, however, I don't have a box to think outside of so here goes.

I measured my 4" jointer and moving the fence as far back as possible gives you a 4 3/4" board width with 3/4" against the fence but not addressing the blades. Also, this non-jointed surface would catch on the leading edge of the outfeed platen. Any farther back and the fence falls off the runner.

Remove the runner. Take it to a machine shop and have them make a new runner some 1" to 2" longer than the Shopsmith fence runner. (Do you all see the picture I'm painting?) Re-install the new fence runner which will now stick out the back of the jointer further than the orriginal.

Now, set your fence even with the back of the blades of the jointer. Set your depth, I agree shallow is better, and with the board grain in the proper direction joint the back side. Turn off the jointer. Move the fence so that only the remaining unjointed stock is over the blades. Lock down the fence and joint the front side in the same direction. Repeat as necessary moving the fence twice for each pass.

No guards are removed and you shouldn't get a ridge (I hope). Seems like a lot but if you do this often enough...

P.