Rip fence locking action not right... (I think)

[JPG]

I have been off line since Thur, but I do think RPD nailed it!

It should be possible to verify correct(or incorrect) parts assembly by driving the rear pivot pin in sufficiently to ascertain if the rear clamp bore is around the pin. If not, make it so.

[sesh]

I checked this also and the rear clamp is securely held in place by the roll
pin. After all checks to make sure all parts are in the right place and working properly I’m convinced if age has not somehow warped something, then I have manufacturer defects from 1954. I have since modified the glide on the fence to sit flat against the guide rail and made the fence parallel to the miter slot by clamping a straight edge pressed against both the fence and the wall of the miter slot having the bolts loose which hold the glide to the fence then tighten them with the fence held parallel to the miter slot by the straight edge. I’m perfectly parallel along the entire length of the table including both miter slots. This is much better imo than the fence being offset by the set screws to square up the fence, though I do enjoy the old novelty of the set screw method. I’ve eliminated the slight rise of the fence at the back of the table by making this modification as well. In the future I may buy a new fence but this is working so well I might buy the new fence just for the fresh metal and do away with the set screws all together.

[chapmanruss]

sesh,

I have a question for you. When you turn the handle to tighten the locks is the threaded rod turning or is just the handle turning on the end of the threaded rod? If it is just the handle turning on the end of the threaded rod then that is the problem. If the Handle is tight on the threaded rod end and the rod is turning then the square nut behind the rear lock is not in far enough in on the threaded rod. Both the front and read locks should move enough when the handle is turned to lock both at the same time. At least that is what I remember from the last Mark 5/V with the original table system I restored. I had to take one apart to replace the rod because it had stripped threads.

[reible]

Those two setscrews are NOT for aligning the fence and should not be used for that. They are there to off set the fence for sanding operations only. They should be back off for all other times.

Ed

[rpd]

sesh

These are pictures of my Greenie fence, so of the same vintage as yours.

greenie fence front lock.jpg (1005.13 KiB) Viewed 10290 times

greenie fence front lock2.jpg (911.16 KiB) Viewed 10290 times

fully open

greenie fence rear lock2.jpg (1.02 MiB) Viewed 10290 times

greenie fence rear lock3.jpg (987.02 KiB) Viewed 10290 times

greenie fence rear lock1.jpg (1.13 MiB) Viewed 10290 times

This is the rear lock when tightened fully

greenie fence rear lock5.jpg (920.8 KiB) Viewed 10290 times

and the same with flash to see to the top

greenie fence rear lock4.jpg (852.46 KiB) Viewed 10290 times

I am still suspicious that the roll pin on yours is resting against the top rear edge of the rear lock, instead of passing through it, the angles just look a bit off.

[JPG]

There is no 'set screw' method for aligning the fence to the miter slots(...blade).

There is only one off set set screw in a greenie fence.

Fence alignment is ONLY adjusted by loosening the two bolts that mount the fence extrusion to the base.

I have to ask what is pointed below.

Ain't OEM.jpg (32.52 KiB) Viewed 10285 times

I am also suspicious of the rear clamp.

FWIW the front clamp 'first' squares the fence to the front rail, 'then' the rear clamp engages the rear edge of the table. That sequence is created by the different spring tension.

[sesh]

Russ,
You made a good point and got me thinking and yes my handle is securely tightened to the rod and doesn’t come loose when either tightenening or does it become loose because of the torque when disenengaging the lock; the handle is always tight and can’t be forced loose by hand But, that made me think of how the square nut is registered against the back of the rear clamp. The square nut has always been flat against the back of the rear clamp when the threaded rod passes through it so, (even though I realized that because the rear clamp is always fixed in position because of the roll pin - the distance between the rear clamp and where the fence base makes definitive positioning contact with the guide rail is always “set/fixed/not changing” I.e. nothing but making a new hole for the roll pin will change the distance when fully locked down. Even so, I pulled the rod out of the nut, placed the nut as far out behind the rear of the clamp as it would go before the dimples holding it in to the clamp stopped it (which was about 1/8th of an inch space, 1/16th fully locked down) and threaded the rod through it and locked it on the table. It was the same. The nut not touching the back of the clamp had no effect on the fences ability to lock down (*maybe key clue here -> In my situation). I’m just not sure what’s going on here.

[sesh]

Thanks RPD,
Your pics really help me to see what the differences and similarities are to my fence.
Just to clarify, I’ve included two pics of me “pulling up hard” on the clamp and pivoting it left and right on the roll pin.

[sesh]

Ah, thanks Ed.

[sesh]

There is a set screw method when you pull the old rust bucket home, find a set screw, see that you can square this particular fence to the blade with it then skip that part of the documentation because you have a new method for squaring the fence.
That flat head screw there is an after market addition by the previous owner for locking the set screw in place so it doesn’t back out.