Shopsmith Forums

garys wrote:If your problem is the clinch nut from this thread, it should be fairly each to clinch it down youself. All it should require is the right size bolt, a wrench, and some oil for the threads.

That way you can fix it on the spot and not wait for repairs to be done for you.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/main ... 4-s10.html

and some space inside the rail in which to operate that wrench. I doubt that this can be done without a proper tool to clinch that insert. Remember, the bolt cannot be allowed to turn while the nut is being clinched. This then necessitates that the pressure be applied by the nut which would be located inside of the rail. Furthermore, if this insert is not one of those near the end of the rail you cannot even apply a wrench.

Looking at the picture posted earlier in this thread, it appears that the clinch nut might be threaded only on the inner half. If that is the case, the bolt goes in from the outside through the non-threaded part and into the threads on the inner part. This way you don't use a nut, just a bolt that fits the existing threads. Pop rivets use a similar concept. You simply pull from the outside until the inside collapses to hold them in place. This looks very similar from the pictures.
Without having the clinch nut in my hand to inspect, I can't be sure.
A quick look at it would tell me what needs to be done.

You are correct in that the insert is threaded (inside thread) on only the tip end. How deep depemds on the size of the insert (threaded nut). It works as you described. When the appropriate pressure is applied the body of the insert expands created a pressure fit of the insert into a properly sized hole. My question is "by what means are you going to apply that drawing pressure with out having a tool designed to do that"?

Thanks for all the responses,

While I wait for a response from SS, I plan to use two nuts, one on the inside and one for outside. I think I have a thin nut that should work. ~mike c

dusty wrote:You are correct in that the insert is threaded (inside thread) on only the tip end. How deep depemds on the size of the insert (threaded nut). It works as you described. When the appropriate pressure is applied the body of the insert expands created a pressure fit of the insert into a properly sized hole. My question is "by what means are you going to apply that drawing pressure with out having a tool designed to do that"?

If only the inner half is threaded, a simple bolt will pull that half toward the outer half using the head of the bolt against the outside. That way any bolt that fits the threads can do the job with no tool needed. This would be all the tool you need to tighten it and crush it.


Think of it like the Greenlee chassis punches. Only the piece on the far side has threads. The part on the front side has a simple hole that the bolt slides through. The bolt head pulls against the inner piece as it is tightened.
Once again, I need to have the part in my hand to see how it is made, but if it is like I described, the task is a very simple one.

My limited experience is with replacing wheel mount studs in brake drums. Using oil as a lubricant results in stripped threads( think slinky like spring) on the puller nut. Grease prevents that. The oil acts like cutting oil.

As for the greenlee punches, all theraded parts are hardened and not likely to act that way.

Since the op will likely use a standard mild steel nut, grease is preferred. A coupling nut provides longer threads.

Still no response from Shopsmith customer support voice mail, email, and phone call requests. I am starting to get angry about this. I've been on hold with customer support for 30 minutes... They are either selling a lot of stuff or having a lot of problems with their products.

friscomike wrote:Still no response from Shopsmith customer support voice mail, email, and phone call requests. I am starting to get angry about this. I've been on hold with customer support for 30 minutes... They are either selling a lot of stuff or having a lot of problems with their products.

Or maybe the good help that they not yet not picked up on the technicalities of the Shopsmith.

While I share the OP's frustration with CS responsiveness, I'm optimistically reporting some recent improvement. I reported a problem with an unrelated kit to CS via email on 4/30, and due to non-response I checked back on 5/13 and 6/3. At one point during that span CS evidently ordered parts that did not resolve the problem but never notified me. On 6/29 CS forwarded my email to Robin Folkerth. I had responses from Robin on 7/7 and 7/8 and the parts were waiting for me when I returned from vacation.

I also sent the link to this thread to Robin with a request for intervention into whatever is going on. I hope this helps.

Edit 7/19, additions in italics.

- David

Parts??? I thought this was all about a rivet nut.