Main table slipping when in drill press mode

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charlese
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Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 10:46 pm
Location: Lancaster, CA

Post by charlese »

Hi, Bob! The carriage lock is, for sure, a very simple lock that'll give a slippage problem sometimes. Here's my story:

When I got my machine (brand new) the carriage lock would lock at almost the horizontal position. From there I could push the lock over the "hump", so to speak, to a stop at a couple of degrees more twist. After may -many tightenings, a table slip from drill press position was noted. This is easy to fix!

**You don't have to take off the carriage to replace this lock or its parts.

I took off the nut opposite end of the handle using a 1/2" socket and slid out the shaft - spring and locks. Not finding anything wrong, put it back together, and tightened the nut as it was before.

Now, my carriage lock becomes tighter after a dozen or so uses. What I mean is; the locking position becomes sooner on the lever throw (higher up) as time goes by. It will take a few weeks before I can notice this tightening, but it is only a minute to re-set the lock. This nut is a tensioned locking nut and is not supposed to loosen or tighten without using a wrench. However now mine does. Maybe there was a washer between the carriage and the nut that I didn't replace. I'm going to look at that this afternoon.

Nope, I replaced the washer! - will try again to fix my minor issue by squeezing the tension end of the nut closed. It only takes a minute to remove the carriage lock assembly from the carriage.

BTW my wedge locks are worn a bit at the top of the slopes, but this looks normal to me as the shiny worn areas match the way tubes.
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P.S. - EDIT - After replacing my assembly. --Thought I'd better add a short comment about re-installing the assembly.

1) Clean out the wedge lock holes and lubricate the wedge locks on the outside of them only. I used graphite.

1a) The whole operation may be a bit easier if the unit is raised to drill press position. I didn't do this - just laid beneath the Mark V.

2) Put the table raising handle back on - (it had to be removed to slide out the carriage lock shaft). Use a block of wood to hold the carriage lock handle all the way against the carriage.

3) Now that the shaft with spring is held in place with the wood block/wedge - compress the spring by hand and put a locking pliers on the shaft to hold the spring in compressed position.

4) Insert the second wedge lock , washer and nut. Tighten the nut so the lock holds the carriage.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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dickg1
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Posts: 343
Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 1:31 pm
Location: Northwestern NJ

Post by dickg1 »

chiroindixon wrote:Bob,

Just go to the other end of that carriage lock and you'll find a nut. Lock on with a 9/16 (?) and play with it. Mine comes loose from time to time. Don't get too vigorous. Try an 1/4 turn at most.

Doc
When I upgraded my Goldie 500 to a 520 last year my table slipped too. I did what Bob suggests. No more slippage.

Dick
radster
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Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:01 pm
Location: Sandy, Utah

Post by radster »

I had the same "table slipping" problem with my 510. Did the research. Found this post and the problem is solved. No $$ out of pocket. Just 30 seconds of my time. Thanks everyone!
keakap
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Joined: Tue Jan 16, 2007 5:09 pm
Location: Kailua, Hawaii

Post by keakap »

bobgroh wrote:... Obviously not a permanent or good fix. Any good ideas on how I should proceed?
Bob Groh, Kansas City area
Actually, as you will undoubtedly find after reviewing the historical record on this common 'problem', your 2x4 fix is a (semi)permanent and good fix.

If the carriage lock works satisfactorily in horizontal boring mode you may well be better off not taking a chance on over-tightening the wedgies and stick with a nice safe reliable tunable cheap and handy block o wood for "drill press" type operations.
(You''ll probably wind up using one sooner or later anaway, especially if you get into mortising.)
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
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dusty
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Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

I have had and resolved this problem a number of times. Cleaning is almost always been the solution. However, when I converted #2 to the Shorty configuration I decided that there would be NO MORE slipping.

I have drilled holes of unwanted varying depth too many times.

No More. You can view details of my solution here.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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