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Tormek T-7

Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 4:33 pm
by hoagie
Stopped by the local Rockler store last night and got talking to a couple of the employees about sharpening. They all use the Tormek both at the store and in their home shops. Any opinions on the T-7? I know it is rather pricey. But if it is a quality tool that will last me for years, I figure that is okay. I have the WS2000 for general sharpening of yard tools, hand chisels, etc. But have had little luck sharpening lathe chisels satisfactorily.

I also have the SS Sharpening Guide on (back)order. Just looking at all of the options.

Thanks for any feedback.

Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 4:41 pm
by curiousgeorge
Hoagie,
I would say if you are thinking of buying the T7 just for lathe chisels, then you are wasting your money. As I stated previously "You Can't beat the Wolverine System" for ease of use and repeatability. Take the money you save and buy some more Shopsmith attachments.

Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:30 pm
by hoagie
curiousgeorge wrote:Hoagie,
I would say if you are thinking of buying the T7 just for lathe chisels, then you are wasting your money. As I stated previously "You Can't beat the Wolverine System" for ease of use and repeatability. Take the money you save and buy some more Shopsmith attachments.
Actually if I do decide to go with the T-7 I expect it will quickly become my sharpening tool of choice, with the WS2000 being passed on to some lucky Craig's List reader. The T-7 would definitely not be used just for lathe chisels. I can see where my original post may have given that impression.

Also, I do not currently own a bench grinder, so I'd have to purchase that as well.

Bench Grinder $100
Wolverine $88
2 Wheels $140
Vari-Grind, Skew Jig, Dressing Jig, etc. $200
Shipping $50-100 or more?

Hmmmm. Decisions. Decisions.

BTW, Rockler is supposed to have the Tormek 2006 on sale for $299 starting in their next ad.

Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:44 pm
by fjimp
dickg1 wrote: The one thing that keeps me wondering is if the hair will grow back on my left arm after testing the edge of those knives and chisels.

Dick

Wow Dick I am impreswsed with your wisdom. I am glad you didn't test them with the harir of the head:confused:

Seriously I am impressed with all of the comments on sharpening. I have the shopsmith sharpening jigs, the wolverine and a fine bench grinder. Okay the bench grinder isn't so fine. When I turn I often wish for something quick and simple. I confess to being one dummy who is challanged to sharpen successfully with the shopsmith system or any other wet or dry system I have ever tried. I do have decent luck with wolverine. Thanks again for all of the good info. fjimp

Hair preservation method to determine sharp tools

Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:17 pm
by charlese
dickg1 wrote:The one thing that keeps me wondering is if the hair will grow back on my left arm after testing the edge of those knives and chisels.

Dick
Dick - here's a trick I learned during wood carving classes. You don't need to shave off a bunch of hair to test sharpness. Use the blade to isolate one (only) hair on the back of your hand in the thumb/wrist area. Tighten the skin by bending your wrist/thumb, then with the blade, press straight down on the isolated hair. Be careful, don't slice!!! :eek: If your knife/chisel is really sharp, the hair will pop off. The pushing action shouldn't cut your skin. If you are good at this - a long hair will actually last for two or three poppings.

If your hair is back and thick - this works the best! Now that my hair has grown grey and thin this is harder to do, but still do-able.

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:35 am
by beeg
Thanks for the tip Chuck.
BUT I'm not clear how to do this. Is the hair between the blade and the skin?

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 2:41 am
by charlese
beeg wrote:Thanks for the tip Chuck.
BUT I'm not clear how to do this. Is the hair between the blade and the skin?
Yes! Use your skin as a cutting block, but no slicing - just pushing downward. If the hair just bends or kinks - the blade isn't sharp yet.

I've never tried this, but you could pluck a hair, lay it on a soft surface, like a handball and do the same thing. Maybe it would also work by laying a hair on a piece of MDF. I've never seen it done on a hard surface. Let me know if it works!

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 6:47 am
by dickg1
charlese wrote:Dick - here's a trick I learned during wood carving classes. You don't need to shave off a bunch of hair to test sharpness. Use the blade to isolate one (only) hair on the back of your hand in the thumb/wrist area. Tighten the skin by bending your wrist/thumb, then with the blade, press straight down on the isolated hair. Be careful, don't slice!!! :eek: If your knife/chisel is really sharp, the hair will pop off. The pushing action shouldn't cut your skin. If you are good at this - a long hair will actually last for two or three poppings.

If your hair is back and thick - this works the best! Now that my hair has grown grey and thin this is harder to do, but still do-able.


Thanks charlese, I'll try this, carefully, when my (white) hand and arm fur grows back.
Dick

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 8:47 am
by beeg
Thank You again Chuck, I just wanted to be SURE before I tried it.

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:08 pm
by james.miller
Don't forget all of the different jigs you will need with the Tormek.

I use the Shopsmith Guide and the Wolverine, they each do something the other won't. If I had the space and money I would probably have the Tormek also as it is an outstanding system.