Sharpening 555812 vs 555193

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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reible
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Post by reible »

If I had to guess most wood workers think of sharp many different ways... so if I say sharp and you say sharp we are most likely not talking about the same thing.

On the strip sander the belts that shopsmith sells stop at 600 grit. At 600 grit you have a fine edge and for some uses just a simple deburring will give you what you want. I go to to a 1200 grit using belts (which I buy else where) at 1200 you have a very very sharp edge and again depending on what you are looking for this might be the last step. We are talking a mirror finish and you will be able to see yourself very clearly on the sharpened surface. From 1200 the use of felt or leather will polish the edge farther... some people feel that this is what they need others will never go this far. I use a green stick but you can go even finer. So how far can you go? That depends on the steel used and how it was made into the tool.

One thing that beginners often fail to do on bench chisels and plane irons is to not flatten the back of the tool much less polish it. The cutting angle needs to have the back done to make an edge.

On my glass sheets I go to 2000 grit. If I wanted to I have paper to even finer grits but have never seen a reason to go past 2000.

If you want to see how your tools stack up take a small square of plate glass and using say 400 grit paper get it milky looking, then take it your stones or what have you and get it crystal clear again. If you can do that you have what it takes equipment wise.

Since people like to test how sharp their tools are one test we use to use was gelatin capsules. Use some old pills, start by pull the capsule apart and dumping out the contents and you have a good test bed. If you can cut the capsule without crushing it and without sawing it you have a sharp tool. It can be done.

Ed

beeg wrote:It sounds like a few people here use grinder/strip sander/disk sander to sharpen the tools. Then use a leather strop to finish it off? Wouldn't you use finer steps between the grinder and strop?
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charlese
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Post by charlese »

That Gel capsule test is a new one to me! Actually it is one of the many new things I learn every day. Thanks Ed!!!:D

At my age, I have many gel capsules to use as tests, but some of them were pretty expensive. I hate to let them go stale! :(
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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

charlese wrote:That Gel capsule test is a new one to me! Actually it is one of the many new things I learn every day. Thanks Ed!!!:D

At my age, I have many gel capsules to use as tests, but some of them were pretty expensive. I hate to let them go stale! :(
It is possible to find empty gel capsules at your local natural foods/health foods store. :cool:
Tim

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james.miller
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Post by james.miller »

I made a strop using a Craftsman 10" sanding disc mounted on a SS arbor. I glued leather to it with the smooth side to the disk so the rough side was out. I use Zam compound on it, I buy it at a Lapidary supply house, I think Woodcraft may have compound. When I use the strop I set the SS speed dial between A and D.

Remember to approach the strop from the back of the SS so the sharp edge can't dig into the spinning strop.
Jim in Tucson
charlese
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Post by charlese »

greitz wrote:Chuck- Could we get a picture of your round leather strop, please? And where do you get it? And how do you use it? I've never stropped anything before, so I'm not familiar with the process.

Thanks!

Gary
Well Hello Gary! Let's see - It's been over three months since you posted this request. Sorry! Just ran across your post today.

Here is a link to the kind of strop I use for lathe tools. http://www.rockler.com/search_results.c ... ther+strop Wow! the price has gone up since I got mine. Well, that has been over 10-12 years ago. Mine was originally for honing carving knives as shown in one of the Rockler pictures. But now I chuck it on the axillary spindle The block of white honing compound comes with the leather wheel and its arbor (which has a 1/4" shaft to fit any drill chuck.

You always want the strop to rotate away from the tool edge. You can stand at the back of the Mark V with the tool's cutting edge up, or at the front of the machine with the cutting edge down.

Don't ever let it be said I am not prompt in replying to a request for info.:rolleyes:
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greitz
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Post by greitz »

Thanks for the info, Chuck! The Rockler link has a good picture. Although the one review listed said that the quality of the strop they're selling now is inferior to the previous model. I'll have to ask the Rockler guys about that the next time I'm there.

Gary
charlese
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Post by charlese »

I went back and read the review! I see what that guy is saying! My leather wheel is an inch thick - and he says the new ones are only 3/4". Don't think I would be too happy with that width either. I see the wheels pictured have three layers of leather. Mine has four.

I know that many grinding wheels are only 3/4" wide and that has always seemed too narrow for me.

Once having the arbor for the leather stropping wheel, one could add leather to it to make it wider. Tandy Leather or other sources. Also one could buy two wheels to make one and have two circles of leather for future use.
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

Since we are back on this thread again, I wood like to add something that has been discussed in other threads: Bill Mayo has a method to modify your strip sander to run backwards when mounted on the "left" side of the headstock. His method will allow you to use the lathe, and without changing your set-up, to sharpen or touch-up your chisels using the strip sander. That could be a real time saver for turning. :)
Tim

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woodburner
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Post by woodburner »

Tim,

The only problem with that is if you are turning a spindle.

You will have to remove the spindle to move the headstock back to the strip sander so the drive hub can reach it. When done sharpening, you need to set-up the spindle again, which can cause problems if you can't get it set just the way you had it in the beginning.

I don't see this being a problem with faceplate turning though.

For me, I have a dedicated 8-inch wheel grinder that I sharpen my lathe tools with. I have both a 60-grit and 80-grit wheel on it and my lathe tools come out plenty sharp. Almost all woodturners don't go beyond 100-grit wheels. Turning wood removes the sharpness so quickly it is usually not worth the time it takes to go any further.

Most woodturners have also found that you can make your lathe chisels too sharp for the task, and doing this will cause the chisels to dull even faster. I have been turning wood for 20 years now and have found this to be true.

Ask any experienced woodturner and almost all will agree. With the use of high-speed steel in the making of lathe chisels these days, going beyond anything over a hundred grit (on an actual grinder), is just taking more time away from your turning and grinding away more steel from your lathe tools than is necessary, which takes away time from actually turning and shortens the life of the lathe tools.

I find that my style of grinding is more than adequate, along with a quick touch-up using what is called a credit card sized diamond hone every now and again, is all that is needed.

I've learned this method of sharpening from some of the best woodturners out there, including Jimmy Clewes, David Ellsworth, Mike Mahoney and Richard Raffan. I have taken week-long classes with all of them.

If anyone is really interested in woodturning and is planning to do a lot of it, you are much better off setting up a dedicated grinder for sharpening. There are companies that make special sharpening jigs that attach to basic grinders just for the purpose of sharpening lathe tools. These jigs really take the guess work out of the sharpening and you are not left trying to learn to do it freehand.
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

woodburner wrote:Tim,

The only problem with that is if you are turning a spindle.

You will have to remove the spindle to move the headstock back to the strip sander so the drive hub can reach it. When done sharpening, you need to set-up the spindle again, which can cause problems if you can't get it set just the way you had it in the beginning.

I don't see this being a problem with faceplate turning though...
I am knot an experienced turner, and I had knot thought of that. Good point. Thank you for making it. :)
Tim

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