More pen turning questions

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rkh2
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Posts: 602
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 10:56 am
Location: Lewisburg, TN

Post by rkh2 »

Tom

Welcome to the forum. I saw your post and thought I would share with you what I use.

The attached link is the mandrel I use. It is set up for the Shopsmith.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKM-CL.html
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
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hdtran
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Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2010 6:55 pm
Location: NM

Post by hdtran »

Random answers without quoting:

The less expensive pens from Penn State are typically Cross-style refill ballpoint. A slightly more expensive pen style uses a Parker-style ballpoint. The most expensive pens are roller balls and fountain pens.

For the purposes of this discussion, I'm assuming you're using Cross-style kits or Parker-style kits. I have personally had on my desk and on my kids' desk Cross-style pens, unused, for > 2 yrs. When attempting to write, they write pretty much immediately. The Taiwanese-made Cross-style refills in the Penn State kits are pretty good. I don't have age data for Parker-style kits yet. But I conclude that these Taiwanese Cross-style refills are far, far better than most or all generic office store pens.

I've assembled Cross-style kits which are more than 3 yrs old (don't ask). The ink flows pretty much immediately. I keep most of my kits in my garage (hits > 90F in the summer). I have a few more expensive roller ball kits in the house; working on donations for benefits, retirement presents, and graduation presents.

Some of the Penn State kits now come with a rubber or plastic "nib protector" on the end of the ball point. This is an attempt at giving the pen a longer shelf life. After you assemble the pen, but before you press in the transmission too far, put the refill in, and test the transmission. To do this, you must generally remove the nib protecting piece of rubber or plastic. (You can generally put it on again after, but I wouldn't bother, personally).

One hint (DAMHIKT): Twist the transmission to fully retracted (for Cross-style pens) before pressing. Insert pen refill, screw it in, then, check for proper transmission depth. If you press the transmission in the extended position, there is a possibility that you could cause the transmission to buckle.

Regarding styles: Most of the less expensive kits are cap-less pens; twist to operate. The more expensive kit styles are capped pens.

The easiest kits to make are the single-tube kits (which, for the most part, use a Parker-style refill). The least expensive kits are the slimline and relatives.

Anecdotally, the PSI "funline" are of lower quality; transmissions don't work as well; platings wear off; etc. This is hearsay, and I don't have personal experience there.

If you're attached to either the wood or the pen kit, you're less likely to learn. Practice on cheap pine, etc.

Mesquite makes for beautiful pens, especially if you find some transitions from sapwood to heartwood in the blank.

Of the gifts that I have made: I know 3 users personally (colleagues at work) who use the pens daily. One more co-worker doesn't; it's a display piece.

Check out my gallery of turnings on Picasa at https://picasaweb.google.com/hy.d.tran/Pens#
mbcabinetmaker
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
Location: Greer SC

Post by mbcabinetmaker »

tradertom wrote:F.Jim Parks,

I am new to this forum.

Just got a used Shopsmith 510.

What form of pen mandrel do you use on the Shopsmith. I have turned pens on a small lathe but not on the Shopsmith. Do you use a 1/4" router chuck or a pen mandrel?
When making the fatter pens using the 7mm blank how do you handle the lack of length when you remove the center band?
Do you have a shorter tool rest that you use for pens?

Any suggestions for turning small projects on the Shopsmith will be
appreciated.

Thanks for the help.

Tom Boardman
Tifton, GA

Welcome to the forum Tom. This may answer some of your questions.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=7442
****************
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Mark

2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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fjimp
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Posts: 2345
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 8:45 pm
Location: Lakewood, Colorado

Post by fjimp »

tradertom wrote:F.Jim Parks,

I am new to this forum.

Just got a used Shopsmith 510.

What form of pen mandrel do you use on the Shopsmith. I have turned pens on a small lathe but not on the Shopsmith. Do you use a 1/4" router chuck or a pen mandrel?
When making the fatter pens using the 7mm blank how do you handle the lack of length when you remove the center band?
Do you have a shorter tool rest that you use for pens?

Any suggestions for turning small projects on the Shopsmith will be appreciated.




Thanks for the help.

Tom Boardman
Tifton, GA
Many apologies for taking so long to respond. Today has been busy. I prefer this PSI pen mandrel http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKMSTS2.html I have successfully made the fatter pens work fine without lengthening the pen tubes and have sometimes increased the length by substituting a 3/16" longer tube that I cut myself after purchasing extra 7 mm tubes from PSI. In fact I keep extra tubes on hand in all sizes. I have several tool rests and pick one that best meets my need at the moment. Although you haven't ask I suggest a live tail stock for most turning. Although I use numerous vendors for pen making and other turning supplies I find the PSI catalog a great source for other turning ideas. Good luck as you experiment with new ideas. FJimP
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
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