Conical Disk

[hoagie]

The direct sunshine on a normal summer day....

Part of Chuck's success may be attributable to his locale. Until you've leaned upgainst your car after it has been out in the direct sunshine in Lancaster during a "normal summer day" you can't imagine how hot steel can get in just a few minutes.

[8iowa]

A tip I picked up from Nick Engler at last July's Shopsmith week-end:

For a spray adhesive, use 3M77 because items stuck on with it are removable. 3M90 is also available but it's bond is permanent.

I have not tried it, but I suspect that a sanding disk removed via heat can be successfully re-attached with 3M77.

[reible]

Hi,

Just in case you want to see what happens if the sandpaper at the seam lifts and folds back like what happen to me.

It also took a while to get the piece of cedar cleaned up for the wagon seat bench I was building.

[ATTACH]2564[/ATTACH]

Ed

[doug45601]

I've had no problems with removing and changing the grits on eithor the conical disk or flat disk... For the most part, I don't leave the paper stuck on the disk after use (the longer it stays on the disk, the more difficult it becomes to remove it)

I remove the paper and stick it back on the waxed backing paper and keep them in a drawer away from dust. Also, I alway wipe my sanding disk down before applying the paper and after removing the paper to assure a dust free connection.

Haven't tore any paper yet! and have done this over and over.

[a1gutterman]

I've had no problems with removing and changing the grits on eithor the conical disk or flat disk... For the most part, I don't leave the paper stuck on the disk after use (the longer it stays on the disk, the more difficult it becomes to remove it)

I remove the paper and stick it back on the waxed backing paper and keep them in a drawer away from dust. Also, I alway wipe my sanding disk down before applying the paper and after removing the paper to assure a dust free connection.

Haven't tore any paper yet! and have done this over and over.

What procedure do you use? Heat in any way? What is the temperature of your shop? How do you store them? Anybody else remove the disks after each use?

Note: If this is so easy, why did SS come out with the velcro system for the flat disk?

[charlese]

I've had no problems with removing and changing the grits on eithor the conical disk or flat disk... For the most part, I don't leave the paper stuck on the disk after use (the longer it stays on the disk, the more difficult it becomes to remove it)

I remove the paper and stick it back on the waxed backing paper and keep them in a drawer away from dust. Also, I alway wipe my sanding disk down before applying the paper and after removing the paper to assure a dust free connection.

Haven't tore any paper yet! and have done this over and over.

Hi Doug! Happy to have someone else in the same camp!:) It seems, others have had problems. Maybe it's the humidity!

[charlese]

What procedure do you use? Heat in any way? What is the temperature of your shop? How do you store them? Anybody else remove the disks after each use?

Note: If this is so easy, why did SS come out with the velcro system for the flat disk?

Nick said the disk should be 70 to 100 degrees - I've found that hot in my hand,but not necessarily as hot as a light bulb does the trick. Today my shop was 45 degrees to start and only warmed up to 60. I probably couldn't have traded sandpaper until closing time, but I would have had to put the disk in front of the heater for at least an hour, with the cold air hanging near the concrete floor. Tomorrow, I'll see how the disk heats up.

Shopsmith made the velcro disk system for quick/easy changes and for a softer sanding surface.

[reible]

Hi,

When I first got my shopsmith the sanding disc was already the steel version however you did not have the option of buying discs with "stickum" already on it. You used a contact cement, in fact I might have some laying in some box somewhere. It was a creamy yellowish color and dried more "clearish". One issue that became clear was that when one sheet was worn out or you wanted a finer grit you had to take off the old and since you had no sheet to stick it on... well let's just say it was a pain. It was also time consuming. I picked up a second disk then third. Now it was a mater of ease to go from grit to grit but still not so great to change papers.

I was really glad when the presure sensitive discs came out. They are a lot better and yes you can take them on and off and store them. However it is very nice to just take another disc down with the paper you want and get back to business. I have also found that sometimes when swapping papers the second or third time around they are not holding as well near the outer edges. I never see that on new sand paper and I never have to worry about fixing it either.

I also have a disc for just sharpening and another with the velcro system which allows for quick changes on the machine but sands different due to the cushion effect of the velcro.

I have just one of the conical discs and keep 80-grit on it. I had no trouble getting the paper off and stored it on the orginal backer paper. When I put it back on there was no indication that a problem was happening... sort of like the O-ring on the shuttle... but sure enough several pieces into my sanding operation a loud pop sort of sound and then a grinding sound of my main table. I had the machine off in very fast order and found the seam must have caught somehow. The paper folded on itself so the grit side and edge were tucked against the steel and the bulge this caused was sanding the table. It did it with a lot of force and the seam was tightly made with maybe an inch of the edge folded under near the top. This sort of thing had never happened when I replaced the sanding discs with new. I never wanted this to happen again and I have since just replaced with new sanding discs and for that reason only use 80 grit. Someday I want to buy a second one to keep 150-grit on.

So I guess my question is why are you not buying more discs... do you like the 15 or 20 minutes of down time to change grits of paper? At least think about it and the rest of my story, you can thank me later.

Ed

[charlese]

Hi,
So I guess my question is why are you not buying more discs... do you like the 15 or 20 minutes of down time to change grits of paper? At least think about it and the rest of my story, you can thank me later.
Ed

Hi Ed! Happy Holidays to you!

Both you and Tim have good points, in that multiple disks are easier to change than changing paper on a single disk. There's absolutely no question about that! Having multiple disks is a good deal for anyone having a problem with changing sandpapers. Honestly, I was surprised there was quite a few folks having problems with this. - - Since these problems occur, a very good way to overcome them is to use multiple disks. In fact I have multiple arbors for saw blades simply for the ease in changing blades.

That said - as I've not experienced a big issue with my changing methods, except for the one rip of paper from inside when removing paper. That rip (about 2") was easily overcome when re-using. There just isn't a need for me to have extra disks.

Do I mind the down time? No, not any greater extent than I mind machine changes. I usually know that I will be using the conical disk way before the actual need, and heating of the disk is done while doing other things. The actual change only takes a few minutes - I think.

Thanks Ed!

[doug45601]

Hi Doug! Happy to have someone else in the same camp!:) It seems, others have had problems. Maybe it's the humidity!

I try to keep my little shop at 50 or above.. I also run a de-hunidifier in an effort to keep moisture down when I turn up the gas heat.. Condensation can quickly be attracted to cold metal..

A couple things I keep in mind when using the sanding disk it not to use excessive pressure while sanding... (heat and pressure will liquify the glue and once cooled causes greater sticking abilities)

I make sure the disk is dry and clean.. (wipe it down with Naptha)

When sticking on the paper, I don't use excessive pressure except for the extreem edges (the pressure from sanding in the body of sanding will apply enough pressure in my opnion.

I quickly remove the paper and put it back on it's backing paper once finished sanding. Have not had to use any heat as of yet to get it off.

I've not had any paper to come loose or wrinke during sanding as I keep my object being sanded moving all over the paper to assure uniform contact.. and not too much pressure.

Note: Old paper with old glue becomes more difficult to do this with so I use a spray bottle with laquer thiner to "lightly spray the glue back before application... (seems to put a little more life back in the old glue)