Shopsmith Forums

If you want to eliminate wood movement as the cause clamp the piece to the miter gauge. Then try the same cuts again and see what the results are.

edma194 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 17, 2021 12:18 pm The OP states the same side of the board is being lined up on the miter gauge. I'm curious why the end over end change in the first place. Why isn't the board and miter gauge simply moved to the other slot to make another cut without any other change?

My thinking was that by flipping the board end over end, I'm gauging not only by the same edge, but the same place on the edge (to within ca. 1/2"). And later measuring from the same place. Also I'd be cutting through nearly the same wood in case there might be some grain variation that could affect it (though I would doubt that). Just trying to eliminate variables.

I would also hold the board against the miter gauge with my hand to make sure it isn't moving, not just using the pistol grip hold down.

Yep, doing that!

jsburger wrote: ↑Wed Nov 17, 2021 12:24 pm If you want to eliminate wood movement as the cause clamp the piece to the miter gauge. Then try the same cuts again and see what the results are.

Good suggestion. I don't think it's movement but I'll definitely try that.

DLB wrote: ↑Wed Nov 17, 2021 12:12 pm Make sure the headstock, table, and quill locks are tight. The quill lock, in particular, should be the very tight version of hand tight. And also check for end play in the spindle with the quill locked. I try to move the spindle in and out using either that aluminum knurled cap or any arbor. Watch for movement where the color contrast is high at the headstock side of the aluminum knurled cap. Movement of any of these is more or less the same as movement of your stock along the face of the miter gauge, and may look like an angle error.

What method are you using to align your miter gauge? And can you check that by seeing how that same method looks from the other slot? I'm thinking the 'book' method may create an error for the other slot.

- David

Yep. I've had issues when these locks aren't locked.

Part of the reason I believe it may be slippage is that I often have that happen to me when I switch sides or even switch hands to hold things. When working on the right side of the blade, my left hand holds the miter gauge while my right hand guides the work piece. When working on the left side of the blade it is the opposite. This is why I said we hold things differently when switching sides as each hand does different things based on which side of the blade we are working on. I know that the grip on my one hand is not as good as the other but most people do not take into account that their hand strength is not the same. It may be a slight difference but it can make a difference in how well things are held. We believe we are using the same strength but in actuality it is different.

HopefulSSer wrote: ↑Wed Nov 17, 2021 12:54 pm
My thinking was that by flipping the board end over end, I'm gauging not only by the same edge, but the same place on the edge (to within ca. 1/2"). And later measuring from the same place. Also I'd be cutting through nearly the same wood in case there might be some grain variation that could affect it (though I would doubt that). Just trying to eliminate variables.

Flipping the board over introduces variables. Use a clamp as suggested above, and leave the board clamped to the miter gauge and then try it in both slots.

Check for increasing slop in the miter slots as the miter gauge moves further forward. This can be done without the saw running.
I found on mine that before the blade the miter gauge had less side to side movement than after the blade.

I found somewhere a suggestion of wrapping some tape on the miter gauge guide bar to narrow the gap slightly, and this does seem to help for
my table.

b

Test results:

• Clamping makes no difference.

• Not flipping makes no difference.

• One strip of cellophane tape took out the slop in the slot but makes no difference.

All locks are locked. There's a little bit of blade runout to this side but my expectation is that it would just make the kerf a little wider - after all they make (or made?) wobble-blade dado cutters. But maybe not? This is that same thin-kerf combo blade that was giving me grief with rip cuts. Maybe it's flexy enough that it cut true(er) at the beginning of the cut but the runout manifests at the end? I dunno. Hopefully Santa will put a blade and/or arbor in my stocking

Run out shouldn't change the angle of the cut or only relative to one miter slot. It just makes the kerf wider.

How wide is the piece you are crosscutting?

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