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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 5:53 pm
by paulmcohen
The first thing I am sure of is you motor is newer then your machine. The 1950's Shopsmith machine had smaller motors. The 1 1/8 HP motor was introduced in the 1970's or early 80's if my failing memory serves me.

Motor Problem

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:07 pm
by dusty
The 1 1/8 hp motor was introduced in 1962.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/faq/markv.htm

This was sometime during the transition from the anniversary model (brown/gold/tan) to the smooth gray model.

Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 12:17 am
by Ed in Tampa
dustywoodworker wrote:Thanks Ed. That clears up a lot and it seems to be a logical analysis of the motor problem that started this thread.

Isn't a starting capacitor usually housed in a container on the outside of the motor body? If so, my shopsmith motor has no such housing.

The electrical characteristics on my motor are:

A. 13.2 SFA 13.2 AMB 25 degrees C

In a different location, I have the following markings:

1 1/8 hp 3450 rpm SF 1.0

Do you know what SF stands for.

I searched online but my computer skills are limited. I've been told that indirectly two or three times my someone here on this forum. I am getting better but maybe not smarter as I grow older.

Sure wish I had been as curious when I was younger but I had no time to learn the small stuff then.
___________________
Making Sawdust Safely
Dusty
That one made me look! SF stands for service factor and a 1 basically says it will perform at it's rated Horsepower. Service factors are usually 1, 1.15, and 1.25. If the service factor is exceeded the motor will heat up quickly and fail.
Ed

Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 12:51 am
by rallen
According to my serial number, I have a 1961 with a 1-1/8 hp motor and the poly-b belt system. When I was cleaning it, I was surprised to see there was no housing to hold the capacitor to the motor but rather, a small metal clip that was intended to wedge it against the end plate that houses the starting contacts. I was also surprised to find that my capacitor wires were soldered directly to the contact assembly, as opposed to newer motors which have clips so the capacitor can be removed for cleaning / replacement more easily.

Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 7:25 pm
by jmhaz
I've been gone and missed all the followup answers. Thanks again for the information. Interestingly, I tried the motor later and the more I used it the better it seemed to work. So I suspect it might just need a general service and lube from sitting idle. But I might go ahead and give it a complete rebuild; from the advice here it doesn't seem like much of a chore.

I did look for the more powerful motor on purpose; it seemed like a worthwhile upgrade.

Cheers again, everyone who helped.