Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:How do you come to that $400 figure?

Shipping will increase cost (but by how much)? Parts cost is a function of parts needed. May be nothing, may be a lot.

A motor costs about $250.00 without replacing any thing else. What if it is bad?

I think you have to be able to put hands on in order to make a reasonable estimate.

BTW, who estimates $100 and what do they propose to do for that $100?

Looks like a lot of SWAG to me!:D

I think it is a good estimate, figuring you might need to spend $400, of course as you have no idea as to what else might be wrong so it is just an estimate from us guys here who have never seen or have much knowledge about the machine. Shipping will of course be added on and depending on where the parties are located that could make amount quite different too.

Dusty I think we are talking about the ebay offer, can't say for sure??

Ed

dusty wrote:How do you come to that $400 figure?

Shipping will increase cost (but by how much)? Parts cost is a function of parts needed. May be nothing, may be a lot.

A motor costs about $250.00 without replacing any thing else. What if it is bad?

I think you have to be able to put hands on in order to make a reasonable estimate.

BTW, who estimates $100 and what do they propose to do for that $100?

"BTW, who estimates $100 and what do they propose to do for that $100?"

the $100 will clean and inspect the headstock and cover 3 hours of labor, which is quoted as the time to get this far. parts and additional labor are extra.

shipping will add $100 making the total now $200, still nothing has been done. next add motor bearings. main shaft bearings, idler shaft, maybe a floating sheave, how about a control sheave? and for many there will be the reccomended two bearing quill upgrade and of course the quadrant is showing some wear. i'm sure you want to go ahead with that. and God forbid a new motor is reccomended.

myself, i can do any of these repairs as needed, i'm talking about someone that ships a head stock out for repairs.

i'd be willing that very few leave the shop for less than $400. the $100 rebuild charge loooks good enough to get them in the door.

just my $.02 fwiw

Jacob Anderson from Va Beach, Va offers this repair/rebuilding service on Ebay. All of his customers has given him very high marks for quick turn around and the work done on their headstocks. He is available to answer any questions and has done a few hundred headstocks in the past couple years. He has excellant DVDs on Shopsmith repairs/rebuilding that I review quite often. I recommend him for any Shopsmith repairs and rebuilding anyone may need.

Many times, I also recommend buying a good headstock from a known Ebay seller (I can recommend a couple) and then learn to rebuild the original headstock themselves when they feel up to it as a spare headstock or just sell it later.

If anyone has any questions as to what they should do, I will be happy to share my opinions.

dusty wrote:How do you come to that $400 figure?

Shipping will increase cost (but by how much)? Parts cost is a function of parts needed. May be nothing, may be a lot.

A motor costs about $250.00 without replacing any thing else. What if it is bad?

I think you have to be able to put hands on in order to make a reasonable estimate.

BTW, who estimates $100 and what do they propose to do for that $100?

i am not acusing anybody of any type of wrong doing. the original post asked about sending a headstock out for repair.

i am just giving a fair representation of what to expect should one do that.

while i can repair my shopsmith, i do not do front-end work on automobiles. i've been given similar proposals in auto service centers.

reible wrote:Don't want to put a damper on you ready-mix idea but I'd keep that stuff away from the shopsmith... the bags normally are not sealed that well and the dust is not a shopsmith friendly substance... no kidding.Ed

thanks, Ed. It was a one-time solution... was trying to get a bowl done for a friend before I went for a visit, and had to do something.

those bags are now footings for my front steps, so I don't think I'll be using them again.

Hi,

On one of the other sites we had many a discussion on how to add weight (would you believe lead shot in the lower tubes) and one that related to cement was to put anchors in the floor and use web straps to ratchet it down (only until tight). So far I haven't done anything that bounced the machine around but I've heard stories of machines tipping them selves over! I hope they were only stories.

Ed

gilamonster wrote:thanks, Ed. It was a one-time solution... was trying to get a bowl done for a friend before I went for a visit, and had to do something.

those bags are now footings for my front steps, so I don't think I'll be using them again.

jpg40504 wrote:Looks like a lot of SWAG to me!:D

I see that you are really getting into the acronym thing! But just what was the Scientific part?

Well!!!! here goes.About a year ago i bought my SS and the speed changer was not working. After some research i found it would cost about $350.00 for parts about $100.00 shipping from Colorado to Utah. This was after i took it apart and found all the insides had some thing wrong with it. It seems like all the bushings had cracks in it,even the motor sheeve had a crack visable between the spring. I paid $250.00 for the SS so i thought i had a pile of junk on my hands. My dear wife of forty years said stop and think about it for a while then think of a way. After talking to Bill Mayo on this forum and after seeing the 10ers on some of his pictures my wife said fix it up like the 10er and use it if you can. I did and now i am useing it as a hybrrd.I used a one horse motor with pullys on the left side of the machine. I CAN CHANGE THE PULLYS REAL FAST TO GET DIFFERENT SPEEDS. Not the best solution but for bowl turning it works for me at this time.Eventully i will fix it up right. I know this is off the subject but any thing is possable if you think out of the box.