Headstock differences?
Moderator: admin
-
dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Well I really don't know much about this. I do know that I am running in the third groove but I vaguely remember that I moved it from the second groove (I think). It was done after attending a Traveling Academy class about three years ago. At that class we were told the third groove but there was NO DISCUSSION about which model Mark V was involved. I don't recognize the sounds to be wrong but then without hearing other machines regularly I believe ones tends to think whatever you hear is normal. I do believe my machine is louder than it once was and that is strange because my wife says I can't hear anymore.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Headstock differences?
The "B" headstocks had a separate Poly-V pully on the Drive Sleeve shaft. I have found the pully set screw can loosen and cause major problems. I have added this check to my headstock rebuilding check list. I have find a solid one-piece Poly-V pully and shaft in the later "C" headstocks. I have not compared the 2 different Drive Sleeve Assemblies to see how the pully grooves line up but will as I have both types of headstocks waiting to be rebuilt.
For years, I have lined up the Gilmer and Poly-V belts on the Drive Sleeve and Idler Sheave by placing the eccentric bushing againest the back edge of the eccentric headstock housing part and moving the idler shaft inward until the belt is vertical on both pullys. Then I replace and tighten the eccentric set screw, cup type with cut segments, (not too tight) to hold the idler shaft bearing at this location in the eccentric bushing. I use a larger body washer to hold the eccentric bushing and prevent the eccentric bushing and idler shaft bearing from coming pass the end of the headstock housing if either the eccentric set screw or the eccentric housing bolt (not too tight) was to loosen.
I add this screw and body washer by drilling and tapping the early Gilmer headstocks. I do not use the 2 Gilmer eccentric bushing holders when modifing the Gilmer headstock. I operate the Gilmer belt about 1/8" off the back solid part of the drive sleeve pully. I find most Gilmer belts rubbing/grinding againest this solid part of the pully and tearing/shearing the side of the Gilmer belt to where it needs replacing.
For years, I have lined up the Gilmer and Poly-V belts on the Drive Sleeve and Idler Sheave by placing the eccentric bushing againest the back edge of the eccentric headstock housing part and moving the idler shaft inward until the belt is vertical on both pullys. Then I replace and tighten the eccentric set screw, cup type with cut segments, (not too tight) to hold the idler shaft bearing at this location in the eccentric bushing. I use a larger body washer to hold the eccentric bushing and prevent the eccentric bushing and idler shaft bearing from coming pass the end of the headstock housing if either the eccentric set screw or the eccentric housing bolt (not too tight) was to loosen.
I add this screw and body washer by drilling and tapping the early Gilmer headstocks. I do not use the 2 Gilmer eccentric bushing holders when modifing the Gilmer headstock. I operate the Gilmer belt about 1/8" off the back solid part of the drive sleeve pully. I find most Gilmer belts rubbing/grinding againest this solid part of the pully and tearing/shearing the side of the Gilmer belt to where it needs replacing.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)