Grounding an ungrounded motor.?

[JPG]

To clarify my recommending the jumper to the metal shanked mount switch, It is a fail safe sort of issue.

It eliminates the remote possibility of the shank to motor frame not being connected due to paint or other cause.

There are two possible sources of fault - motor and switch.(ignoring a conductor insulation fault)

This goes beyond typical practice.

[rpd]

Glad I dropped in today. I have a 1958 Greenie that I bought as a basket case. The seller told me that the motor (a GE 3/4hp DoM circa 1956) ran OK, but he had hooked up a different capacitor that was resting on the motor and the motor pan. To make a long story a little shorter, I've replaced the bearings on the motor, the quill and the Gilmer drive shaft. The cord on the unit is your basic 50s type two wire cord. I was going to replace it with a 16 gauge 3 wire cord. I'd figured that I could tap a ground screw onto the motor body. Was not aware the I may need to run a jumper to the switch though. It has been a learning experience. Grew up using a 10-ER that Dad traded up for back in 1961. Then he traded up for a MKV in 1981 which I am still using. The Greenie will get put back to work after I finish cleaning up the bench and way tubes.

When I re wired my 10ER's I used one of these 12 gauge cords from Lee Valley. They are also handy to have around the shop, I have several, and chain them if I need one that is longer.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/ho ... em=99W7546

[NewfieDawg]

Thanks, David. I'll check my supply of grounded 'sacrificial' extension cords and see if I have something on hand. If not, it's off to the hardware store.