Shopsmith Forums

I have not seen the DVD but this is often called setting a fence skew.

I use my rip fence to the right side and have it set so the out feed side is just slightly off set to the right. If you like to swap the rip fence from right to the left side this can be an issue if it too far off. What others sometimes do is add a face to the fence and then use the same idea to make minor adjustments. A dollar bill if I recall is .004" and folded would be .008"... In the case of seeing the burning on the fence side (to tight to the fence at the rear) of the cut you would add the a shim of paper between the fence and face on the infeed side. Again from memory I think a business card is about .010 and of course just any old sheet of paper can be used or stacked to get thing correct.

Ed

easterngray wrote:Rick Davis address this issue on his maintenance and alignment DVD. In the instructions he gives for aligning the fence to the blade he suggests that burning can be avoided by folding a dollar bill and putting it between the fence and the piece of wood inserted in the mitre slot for the alignment process, on the outfeed end of the fence, before tightening your fence adjustment bolts. Please note that this is for when you lock the actual bolts on the fence, not the handle lockdown. I thinks I'm remembering this correctly.. If you watch the dvd you'll see what I mean.. It's a good one. Alec

I'm going through tons of paper work and sorting/recycling/filing them. OK maybe not tons but a LOT.

One thing that surfaced was some information from Forrest Manufacturing Co. in reference to burning of wood. Since this is most likely copyrighted I will take the liberty of give a very brief summery of the points they make. None of these are new but they are often overlooked.

A) Hard wood: Raise the blade 1 or 2 inches above the wood. Feed faster.
B) Too many teeth may slow feed. Lower tooth count rip blade would help.
C) Wood getting caught on ______ (blade insert, etc).

I looked for this online but was unable to find it so this is about all I feel comfortable posting, as it is pretty much common knowledge. I will say they claim A) can reduce 300-500 degree cooler cuts!!!!

Ed

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A few really good tips:

http://www.forrestblades.com/Forrest_Sa ... ctions.pdf

Great Job Dusty!

That looks like what I was trying to find but didn't... Now since it is indeed online we can all read it!!! It is also a more expanded version of what I have so I'll check and see if I can part with the old one and print this one out as a replacement... I'll also read it... remembering it might even be possible if I really try.

Ed

dusty wrote:A few really good tips:

http://www.forrestblades.com/Forrest_Saw_Blade_Instructions.pdf

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I to was having the same problem with my 3/4 shopsmith when I used a 10 blade. What I did to stop this problem was to use a smaller blade. When I do any finish work I use a 9 inch hollow ground planer blade and it seems to work better than 10 inch blade. I have the gold and brown model .