I think the main component in Kilz is similar to shellac. By that I mean shellac and Kilz will seal the same way, putting a solid suspended in a carrier on the surface, allowing the carrier to dry/evaporate and finally ending with a continuous coat of the solid. If you having a problem with the shellac soaking in perhaps you need to increase the cut (lbs of shellac to alcohol ratio)reible wrote:Thanks for the comments!
I guess I should have added that from my experiences that raw cut edges suck up paint requiring more paint. The glue mix is intended to fix that problem.
These pieces are only ornamental in nature and will be painted with the same paint as the wall (pending the shadow idea) which is with a latex. One piece will have a notch routed in it for hiding the center channel speaker wire and a thin power cord for one of those lcd picture frames. The theme is to blend in and look like they were always there...
I had not thought about applying a tape... that I will have to think on.
I was also thinking about the undercoat called Kills or some such name, I've use that on some other applications where I was putting some "special" spray paint down (think $16 a spray can) and couldn't afford to put down many layers...
Got any more ideas post them... I'm interested.
Ed
While I like Kilz I have found Shellac does a better job in most applications.
As to MDF differences I must be real lucky because the MDF I have been using is uniform with the cut edge nearly identical to surface. Again I tend to stay away from the big box stores for wood as I can buy my wood as cheap or cheaper from local dealers.
We need to consider the cost of the waste (cutting around bad spots), time and extra materila spent on things like fixing edges (as in this case) and things like Nick pointed out happening in foreign manufactured wood products into our whole cost. When all that is considered many times the big box products are far more expensive than the actual price on the product.