Shopsmith Forums

jpg40504 wrote:I do not understand any difference either in any of the methods. I think dong the dumb thing he did with any of these methods would also kick back. He DID intentionally cause the kickback!

Okay, I'll come out of the woodwork and say I'm with JPG. I do knot see the difference either.

If your strips don't need to be any thinner than a little more than 5/16 (actually 21/64 by my calipers) you might consider trying a trick I have used a couple of times, which is to turn a shopsmith featherboard the wrong way to and use the back end as a rip guide. The range of "strips" possible is from a hair over 5/16 to about 3 7/16. Once the featherboard is locked down, you simply keep adjusting the fence to get strips of consistent thickness with each cut.

edflorence wrote:If your strips don't need to be any thinner than a little more than 5/16 (actually 21/64 by my calipers) you might consider trying a trick I have used a couple of times, which is to turn a shopsmith featherboard the wrong way to and use the back end as a rip guide. The range of "strips" possible is from a hair over 5/16 to about 3 7/16. Once the featherboard is locked down, you simply keep adjusting the fence to get strips of consistent thickness with each cut.

That is a neat trick. I'll have to try that. Will that little infeed table fit on my 510.

Hello edflorence,

Might I ask why you have a "C" model headstock on a 500 machine? At least that's what the picture looks like to me. Did you buy a new headstock or what? Just curious.

Nice idea for ripping thin strips!:)

Well, that was a simple and clever trick, reversing the featherboard. I'll have to try that.

edflorence wrote:If your strips don't need to be any thinner than a little more than 5/16 (actually 21/64 by my calipers) you might consider trying a trick I have used a couple of times, which is to turn a shopsmith featherboard the wrong way to and use the back end as a rip guide. The range of "strips" possible is from a hair over 5/16 to about 3 7/16. Once the featherboard is locked down, you simply keep adjusting the fence to get strips of consistent thickness with each cut.

Nifty and handy idea Ed! I'm glad you came up with this. saved me from making another jig that really isn't necessary. A prayer: Please give me the thoughtfullness and insight to use every one of my tools in the most productive ways. Amen

I Think you get an ATTA BOY !!!!for that one, Ed

I can do it on the table saw that way, but I don't like it. I don't get good uniform strips, and there's some variability between the strips, depending on how hard I push up against my guide.

I thought it was a great excuse to buy a bandsaw.

fixit wrote:Hello edflorence,

Might I ask why you have a "C" model headstock on a 500 machine? At least that's what the picture looks like to me. Did you buy a new headstock or what? Just curious.

Nice idea for ripping thin strips!:)

"C" came b4 510 became 'standard'.

Whats with the square hole in the table???

edflorence wrote:...turn a shopsmith featherboard the wrong way to and use the back end as a rip guide.

That is such a great idea. I could stare at my Shopsmith and featherboard for weeks and never see this!

Paul

fixit wrote:Hello edflorence,

Might I ask why you have a "C" model headstock on a 500 machine? At least that's what the picture looks like to me. Did you buy a new headstock or what? Just curious.

Nice idea for ripping thin strips!:)

Thanks to every one for the nice comments on my idea. I should point out that to get the distance between the blade and the back of the featherboard can be a bit of a chore...certainly not as easy as the Rockler jig appears to be...but, once the distance is set I have been able to get pretty consistent results.

As to the machine...I purchased a '54 greenie about 20 years ago. It was a basket case, but most of the parts were there. I sent the original headstock to SS for a rebuild and they put in the bigger motor, all new bearings, new quadrant and I can't remember what all else. A few years ago I decided I wanted to upgrade the old headstock again, and put in the 2 bearing quill and the new belt. I called SS, told them what I wanted and they offered me a great deal on a reconditioned 50th anniversary headstock that had been used for a year on a mall demo machine. The cost of the "new" headstock seemed acceptable to me, compared to what the second rebuild of the old greenie was going to be, so I went for the deal. One of the best SS-related decisions I ever made...the newer headstock is quiter, smoother and runs truer by far than the old.

As for the the square hole in the table, your guess is as good as mine. A previous owner cut it in and I have no idea why. I would replace the table, but SS no longer supports that piece for the old 500 models.