Shopsmith Forums

judaspre1982 wrote:JPG ,nice paint job. One thing that affects the paints original colors is age. If you saw that color gold fresh from the factory and put it side by side after years of service you will more than likely think it was a different color. That is as close as I have seen to an original match. Great job.----Dave

AND according to my SOMETIMES accurate memory banks, the 'original' color (when purchased 45+ years ago) WAS more 'gold' than 'brown'.

But then memories details fade just like paint fades!:rolleyes:

Perhaps the 'goldie' nickname was acquired while they were STILL goldish and the 'brownie' nickname started after it 'turned to . . . Ah Ah brownish.

jpg....you sticking with one coat or two? Since you didn't go down to base metal, there probably is little value in putting a second coat on.

I was checking out my belt and motor cover that I painted (no primer, one coat) and I see tiny pinholes that go down to the base metal so I guess I am going to do one more coat. Even though the coating was pretty heavy, almost to the point of sagging, it still left pinholes (just like the can said it would......)

mickyd wrote:jpg....you sticking with one coat or two? Since you didn't go down to base metal, there probably is little value in putting a second coat on.

I was checking out my belt and motor cover that I painted (no primer, one coat) and I see tiny pinholes that go down to the base metal so I guess I am going to do one more coat. Even though the coating was pretty heavy, almost to the point of sagging, it still left pinholes (just like the can said it would......)

Haven't decided yet. As I said before, I am in experimental mode. I am thinking two lighter coats will be my future technique. In addition to the increased possibility of closing pinholes, the lighter coats will also decrease possibility of running AND create a 'finer' hammered appearance.

I am curious if your 'pinholes' were on a vertical surface when painted?

JPG40504 wrote: I am curious if your 'pinholes' were on a vertical surface when painted?

Pinholes were actually on the HORIZONTAL surface. Vertical surfaces were pinhole free.

I'm tellin' ya, this hammered stuff is a weird paint to work with. I am the type (you know, us QA types) that will master it use, even if I have to paint my entire house with it. I love the trial and error. Maybe I should try DOE (Design of Experiments).

I've had the pin holes show up on the first coat on the cabinets I built. The paint seems to pull from the center of the dimple it creates. A second coat, done within an hour of the first seems to solve it. But I still have trouble with a consistent texture.

And if I remember right, if you don't recoat within 4 hours you have to wait 7 days. Also, full cure doesn't happen for 6 weeks according to a Shopnotes article.

etc92guy wrote:I've had the pin holes show up on the first coat on the cabinets I built. The paint seems to pull from the center of the dimple it creates. A second coat, done within an hour of the first seems to solve it. But I still have trouble with a consistent texture.

And if I remember right, if you don't recoat within 4 hours you have to wait 7 days. Also, full cure doesn't happen for 6 weeks according to a Shopnotes article.

From http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=29 product label:

Dry & Recoat Times based on 70°F – 50% relative humidity. Allow more time at cooler
temperatures. Dries to touch in 15 minutes, to handle in 90 minutes and fully dry in 48
hours. Primers may be top coated immediately. Apply a second coat within 1 hour or after
48 hours. Two coats may be needed to eliminate pinholes and thin spots.
Clean-up: When finished spraying, clear spray valve by turning can upside down and

etc92guy wrote:I've had the pin holes show up on the first coat on the cabinets I built. The paint seems to pull from the center of the dimple it creates. A second coat, done within an hour of the first seems to solve it. But I still have trouble with a consistent texture.

And if I remember right, if you don't recoat within 4 hours you have to wait 7 days. Also, full cure doesn't happen for 6 weeks according to a Shopnotes article.

I can't say without seeing it but if the paint is forming a dimple that sounds more like "fish-eye". That is usually caused by silicone traces on or in the surface. I have wet-sanded the bee-jeebers out of car bodies and used surface wash-downs with the appropriate solvents and still seen it show up. In that case you add "fish-eye eliminator" to the paint but you can't do that with a rattle can.
I love that Rustoleum hammered finish paint and have used it on tool boxes, car ramps and a bunch of other stuff in addition to several Shopsmiths. I am able to buy most colors at our local Wally World. I get a couple of different ones at Lowes and another one (I forget which colors) at Mennards.
I have a number of Shopsmiths and have painted several but I tend to pick colors that are not original. It helps me sort of keep track of which parts belong with which SS. I find that it works better to always use the same table, for example, on the same machine. Most are alike but as in a table, each is "aligned" to the original machine and may not line up correctly on another. Even a tailstock tends to fit its original unit better and where it just slips right in on the original it might bind slightly on another SS. It is just easier to grab the brown parts to go on the brown machine etc.
Slipping in a quick question... If I post a picture here does the forum automatically resize it if needed?

robinson46176 wrote:....Slipping in a quick question... If I post a picture here does the forum automatically resize it if needed?

No! The photo has to measure 800 horiz x 600 vertical pixels or less.

BTW - Welcome to the Forum! Nice first post!

Thanks.
If I did this right here are two pictures of one of my off-color restored Shopsmiths.

Nice looking machine you got there farmer Francis!