Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:Yes, it is reasonable to expect it to be square to the table when setting in the miter slot. I just checked mine using the Wixey. After zeroing the Wixey on the table top, the Tenon Master measures .3°.

Using this, without correction, would introduce approximately a 1/64" error at the top of a 2" tenon. For my work, this would be acceptable. ...
Do tenons need to be precise? How precise are your mortises? Honest questions - not sarcasm.

Upon closer inspection: mine is slightly different from yours. The big knob goes in one simple centered hole, only. Otherwise same. Same too is the error, or v close to it. I measure .20 to .25 off. It varies from top to bottom because (ta-dahh) the face of the jig is cupped! High points are definitely the top & bottom edges. Now if the face were square to the base and the piece were longer than the jig is tall, that wooden matter. But, alas...

I do hear ya though, on the 1/64" thing. The error is not big enough to make a difference, so I am ignoring it. I've used it a good deal and never had a problem, or never noticed one, anaway.

Do tenons need precise? Nah. Not that precise. And to take it a little further, I'll give SS credit for clever: the square-error is such that your cut tenon will be fatter (microscopically) at the shoulders. So this could be a good thing.

Still just a wee bit disappointed, though, that I don't have a 5 pound rock solid piece of perfectly square cast aluminum for a reference tool.

dusty wrote:Yeah, it is suppose to be square and despite my previous post (this thread) mine is dead on. So what happened, you ask. I took it apart cleaned it and put it back together. I was really looking for a way to square it to the table top. It could be shimmed if needed.

Fortunately, it does not need to be shimmed and yours might not either. That is a husky piece of equipment and it seems a shame that it does not get used more.

Question: I see it being used to cut the cheeks on tenons but why is it made so that it can be turned 90°?

Aha, good news. I shall take it apart and make sure everything is flat & smooth. There's still the cup in the face, but that would only affect pieces shorter than 6 inches or so, and not enuf to matter.

"Q": ...it can be turned as much as 90 degrees. This is for miters, et cetera.

keakap wrote:Aha, good news. I shall take it apart and make sure everything is flat & smooth. There's still the cup in the face, but that would only affect pieces shorter than 6 inches or so, and not enuf to matter.

"Q": ...it can be turned as much as 90 degrees. This is for miters, et cetera.

Please explain "miters". The Tenon Master offers two positions - 0° and 90° OR four positions if you count the other 0° and 90° positions.:)

dusty wrote:Please explain "miters". The Tenon Master offers two positions - 0° and 90° OR four positions if you count the other 0° and 90° positions.:)

??????

Two locations for the clamp, yes.

An 'infinite' set of angles can be set between 0 and 90 when the 'fence' is rotated.

I wonder what the angle to the table would 'measure' with a flat board to set the tenon master 'feet' on?

JPG40504 wrote:??????

Two locations for the clamp, yes.

An 'infinite' set of angles can be set between 0 and 90 when the 'fence' is rotated.

I wonder what the angle to the table would 'measure' with a flat board to set the tenon master 'feet' on?

I really do not understand how you rotate the 'fence'. The face of the tenon master is either parallel to the miter slot or perpendicular to it. There is no way to set it in between.

If there is, I have been missing out on that functionality for may years. I will be really, really embarrassed.

JPG40504 wrote:??????

Two locations for the clamp, yes.

An 'infinite' set of angles can be set between 0 and 90 when the 'fence' is rotated.

I wonder what the angle to the table would 'measure' with a flat board to set the tenon master 'feet' on?

Yes on the infinite angle thing.
As for the flat boarded feet, I don unnerstand. My measurements were taken on my workbench with the miter guide bar attachment removed. My query was to see if the T_Master were itself a true square reference, as Dusty's seems to be.

I didn't measure the "in use" positions on the table. Should.
But then if I'm going to have to visit a machinist to have the face flattened, (of the jig, not the machinist), I may as well ask for True Square at the same time, no?

keakap wrote:Yes on the infinite angle thing.
As for the flat boarded feet, I don unnerstand. My measurements were taken on my workbench with the miter guide bar attachment removed. My query was to see if the T_Master were itself a true square reference, as Dusty's seems to be.

I didn't measure the "in use" positions on the table. Should.
But then if I'm going to have to visit a machinist to have the face flattened, (of the jig, not the machinist), I may as well ask for True Square at the same time, no?

Unless de 'face' is not flat, tweaking de feet should make things square.

Nev mind, I reread yer post above.

Shucks now I have to check my round hole under knob TM.