Potatoes and Evaporust

[JPG]

You could cut down on the amount of evaporust to completely submerge a tube using the method above if you were to ALSO place a 1-1/4" sealed PVC pipe into the ID of the tube. Quick mental math says it would take about 30oz. of fluid to completely fill. You could get by with only having to purchase a quart. Buy some ShopSmith stuff with the money you save.

Evaporust ain't cheap, BUT it ain't so expensive as to prevent purchasing any SS stuff. $20 gets you a GALLON!:)

Also I would have to be careful when removing the top 'plug' so as not to get hit in the eye by the 1 1/4" floating pvc pipe jumping out!:D OR guess I COULD fill it with sand.

[mickyd]

JUST for what if's sake, Try an end on a way tube b4 going to the trouble of electrolysis. I am very curious how it works on badly pitted stuff. It really did a job on that drill chuck!!!!!

Instead of testing on the end of a way tube, I'll do one of the vertical posts on the work table (aka saw table) with evaporust and one with electrolysis. The posts are equally as rusted as the way tubes.

FYI - The electrolysis isn't any trouble since I already have the wooden swimming pool built and 15 gallons of my special broth stored in 5 gallon paint buckets.

[mickyd]

.......Also I would have to be careful when removing the top 'plug' so as not to get hit in the eye by the 1 1/4" floating pvc pipe jumping out!:D OR else I COULD fill it with sand.

You bring up an excellent point!! I could just picture unscrewing the top plastic cap and seeing the inner pvc pipe taking off like a rocket!!:D

Could probably use plain old agua to fill the inner pipe also.

[JPG]

To continue the saga of my 10 e/r tube 'restoration' I post the following:

[ATTACH]4376[/ATTACH]
This is one tube 'polished' and the other b4 polishing. I had left them both OUTSIDE in rainy weather for over a week! The coating of Evaporust(for the most part) prevented new rust.
[ATTACH]4377[/ATTACH]
This is both of them after polishing and preliminary waxing(not entirely rubbed down). There is still some very light pitting which I decided to leave so as to not remove too much material. I can always sand it down later. I cannot put it back on.

See later post for polishing method/setup/hardware.

[dusty]

To continue the saga of my 10 e/r tube 'restoration' I post the following:

[ATTACH]4376[/ATTACH]
This is one tube 'polished' and the other b4 polishing. I had left them both OUTSIDE in rainy weather for over a week! The coating of Evaporust(for the most part) prevented new rust.
[ATTACH]4377[/ATTACH]
This is both of them after polishing and preliminary waxing(not entirely rubbed down). There is still some very light pitting which I decided to leave so as to not remove too much material. I can always sand it down later. I cannot put it back on.

See later post for polishing method/setup/hardware.

They look better than mine and mine have never been rusty. Good job.

[JPG]

This post shows the methodology used to sand/polish the 10 e/r tube I am 'restoring'.

The method used is a combination of what Bill Mayo has illustrated as well as a 'chucking' method ala Mickyd. Bills's method requires a SS and a 3/4(?) jaw chuck. Mickyd's chuck was used with a variable speed drill since he did not have a working SS(Yet).

[ATTACH]4378[/ATTACH]

This is the 'freeze plug' used as a chuck. I added a threaded coupler to screw onto the expansion bolt. It is then placed in the SS drill chuck.

[ATTACH]4379[/ATTACH]

This shows the 'plug chuck' mounted into the ss drill chuck and the tube about to be slid onto it. The tube is inserted over the plug and the nut on the expansion bolt tightened and the bolt then tightened into the threaded coupler.

[ATTACH]4380[/ATTACH]

This shows a setup similar to Bill Mayo's tail stock support. The idler pulleys are crudely mounted and are smaller than Bill's. The idler pulleys used are described below.

[ATTACH]4381[/ATTACH]

The idler pulleys consist of a sliding storm door glide with ball bearings and an outer groove. Into the groove is slipped(tightly) a 3/16" o-ring. Two of these were screwed on to a peice of scrap wood. This piece of wood was spaced out over the tail stock boss around the hole with another peice of scrap and c clamped to the tailstock.

[JPG]

They look better than mine and mine have never been rusty. Good job.

Cameras are KIND at this range. They take a better picture than what we see with our eyes.

[ATTACH]4382[/ATTACH]

This is a closeup of the 'pitting' I decided to ignore for the time being!

These tubes being 10 e/r vintage are twice as thick as Mark 5/V vintage. They are the same OD and length, so they fit. Bill Mayo says they provide a more solid base. Time will tell!

You can also tell they look better than my current way tubes and they have never been rusty either. They were nowhere near as polished(EVER). They have had grinding marks since I purchased it new. Now they also have some wear marks also. They were never waxed(until very recently[what difference in 'slidability' that made]). I intend to clean and wax all sliding surfaces when these refurbished tubes are installed.

[mickyd]

This post shows the methodology used to sand/polish the 10 e/r tube I am 'restoring'.

I LIKE IT JPG!! The hex spacer screwed onto the expansion plug bolt is a GREAT idea. I chucked directly on the threaded section which is not as good as this method. Good documentation!

[JPG]

I LIKE IT JPG!! The hex spacer screwed onto the expansion plug bolt is a GREAT idea. I chucked directly on the threaded section which is not as good as this method. Good documentation!

Thought you might like it. I thought it was pretty slick!:D Sure is easier on the bolt threads!:) This idea hit me when I encountered the threaded coupler while looking for something else in the hardware store.

[mickyd]

[quote="JPG40504"]Thought you might like it.]

Continuous process improvement.....that's what it is all about. This is what makes this forum ROCK!! I made sure that I edited my post on the "How To" Guide to Recondition Your Bench and Way Tube thread to include this. Again, great job!