Shopsmith Forums

fjimp wrote:Gentlemen,

The love of my life was giving me those looks associated with the surgeon saying, "No activity for that shoulder or arm at all for eight weeks," so I quit and stood enjoying my handy work. fjimp:p

Either BEHAVE or NO SAWDUST in the future for you.

osx-addict wrote:I've just got to find something to start out my WW tasks -- eh.. to whet my appetite for working wood.. To be completely honest, I almost don't know where to start. I'll look around for some books and magazine's I've got and see what I can dig up..

Rick,
you could always start out with your own version of the hanging Mark V storage cabinet.
a copy of the pdf was posted in article #2 in this thread
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3414

don't forget to adjust the depth and set back of the cabinet so that you can lower your table with the cabinet in place. the version that came with one of my 510s had holes drilled in the top in one spot for lowering the table.

I've been working on plans for a version that will lower onto its own casters when the MarkV is on its feet but hang on the bench rail when the MarkV is rolling around. if I also make the hanger L-shaped, I hope to be able to put the cabinet on and off by myself.

Ivan

Thanks! I'll check it out!

I see the attaching base-to-aux table fasteners referred to as bolts, or studs and nuts.
In one of Nick Engler's alignment videos "nuts" (plural) per stud is the working system.

I upgraded my 500 to 510-R and in fitting the base to the new Aux table the only hardware available was the 4 bolts and maybe four washers (don't remember if I supplied those). (I don't remember if I re-used the old base and bolts from the 500.)
I'd not heard of the studs-n-nuts system before watching Nick.

So I'm curious to know if the conversion to studs-n-nuts (which makes vastly more sense than 4 crude bolts!) is a home remedy or did SS at some time after I upgraded switch to that system?
More importantly, so I can make (or buy) my own, how long are the studs, and are the nuts a special size (thin, for instance?). I'd like to cut potential trips to the hardware down to a minimum if possible.

Thanks for any info, and thanks for the good comments on the forum.

Jack in Kailua
510-R circa '83, 152166

keakap wrote:I see the attaching base-to-aux table fasteners referred to as bolts, or studs and nuts.
In one of Nick Engler's alignment videos "nuts" (plural) per stud is the working system.

I upgraded my 500 to 510-R and in fitting the base to the new Aux table the only hardware available was the 4 bolts and maybe four washers (don't remember if I supplied those). (I don't remember if I re-used the old base and bolts from the 500.)
I'd not heard of the studs-n-nuts system before watching Nick.

So I'm curious to know if the conversion to studs-n-nuts (which makes vastly more sense than 4 crude bolts!) is a home remedy or did SS at some time after I upgraded switch to that system?
More importantly, so I can make (or buy) my own, how long are the studs, and are the nuts a special size (thin, for instance?). I'd like to cut potential trips to the hardware down to a minimum if possible.

Thanks for any info, and thanks for the good comments on the forum.

Jack in Kailua
510-R circa '83, 152166

For each extension table that you are planning to reconfigure, you will need four bolts (studs), eight washer and eight nuts.

I used 2" bolts and cut the heads off. You could use threaded rod and cut it to length.

I prefer to use the bolts. After cutting off the heads, I run the bolt thru a die to clean the threads and then I screw the cut off end into the table. This leaves a clean exposed bolt.

I don't know whether this is a home made fix or not. All I can tell you is that extension tables now come with studs but then I have had my Mark V for nearly twenty years and the original tables came with studs.

I have done this modification to floating tables that I have converted to extension tables.

I went the all thread way. I bought a piece of all thread at 12" long 3/8 dia with 16 threads per inch at HD and eight nuts and eight washers that fit. I cut the all thread into 4 equal lengths (three cuts one less that Dusty's method ) approx 3" long and then I ran a nut up and down the thread to make sure threads weren't damaged from cutting. I carefully threaded it into the table. Mounted a nut and washer on each stud place it on the leg assembly and another washer and nut and I was good to go. I think total cost was something like $5.

I don't know when SS made the change to the studs but in my opinion it was an excellent decision. Before that you had to use shims and it was a pain in the behind putting in a shim, checking, pulling the bolt out put in another shim and etc.

There is a thread on the forum where I detail the each component and the exact price but frankly the procedure is so easy it is not worth bothering searching to find it.

Edited to include all thread rod size and type.

My approach was about the same as Dusty and Ed's except I didn't have to do any cutting. I bought (4) 3/8-16 x 2" setscrews along with the 8 nuts and washers.

Thanks for the stud info, both of you. I believe I'll go with the threaded rod. Ace H. sells it in 36" length, which will be just right to do the Aux and two Floaters.

Of the 4 tables, Main, Aux, 2 Floaters, no 2 are the same exact width, so the rails never line up table to table.
When I'm using the fence on a Floater or Aux table and care if it is parallel to the blade, my setup sequence is: 1) install front rail extension tube; 2) lock it to the Main; 3) lock it to the Aux; 4) install rear ext. tube (if possible); 5) lock that to the Main; 6) snug it to the rear. Principal idea is to align the front rails (fence).

Does this sound like a typical alignment procedure for a job setup?

[quote="keakap"]Thanks for the stud info, both of you. I believe I'll go with the threaded rod. Ace H. sells it in 36" length, which will be just right to do the Aux and two Floaters.

Of the 4 tables, Main, Aux, 2 Floaters, no 2 are the same exact width, so the rails never line up table to table.
When I'm using the fence on a Floater or Aux table and care if it is parallel to the blade, my setup sequence is: 1) install front rail extension tube]

Yes it does. We must presume that the front rail is straight and perpendicular to the plane of the blade. If this is all true then the rear rail is just there to secure the out feed end of the fence. The rear rail does, however, serve to pull the pieces all together to make a steady, cohesive table area.

If I am attempting to do something where I would like to have "absolute accuracy", I try to involve all six vertical support pillars (two on each of the two extension tables and two on the main table).

However, you don't want to do this if you are likely to have to reconfigure. It becomes a real PITA to tear down and reset because you did not plan ahead. Unfortunately, I know.

osx-addict wrote: As for me, I think I'm in pretty good shape.. I've just got to find something to start out my WW tasks -- eh.. to whet my appetite for working wood.. To be completely honest, I almost don't know where to start. I'll look around for some books and magazine's I've got and see what I can dig up..

As I said to someone on another thread not long ago... "Its spring, make birdhouses...
BTW, Some years ago Fine Woodworking did an article on lathe turned birdhouses. Hardly your typical Cub Scout projects. They were glued up from thick slats like a small wooden bucket and then the outside turned down in all manner of great patterns.
Do a Google "image" search on "turned birdhouse".