Shopsmith Forums

mickyd wrote:Yes on the meter question. I'll take a more techy 'schpanation on your second sentence. Do you mean with the unit plugged in, not running, test across where the wires terminate at the motor to the headstock or other convenient part of the unit? If this is correct, exactly what is it checking for? Leakage of juice from what and why and how and...?

Any thing connected(internally) to the input terminals should NOT provide a path for electricity to 'flow to the frame'. If the insulation has broken down(think burnt insulation in the windings) it will be "leakey"(a path for it to flow). The insulation should provide a resistance from input terminals to frame(outer case) in the range of 10**5 or greater(100Kohm).

For simplicity, measure from the plug on the line cord to frame(both blades, and in both power switch positions). This will test the insulation integrity of the motor AND all those other attached giz whizzes and wires.

Another option is to just get one of the DC motors with speed controlthat Skip (from the Yahoo ER group) sells. Then, since you wont need the speed changer anymore, you could just send that to me!

heathicus wrote:Another option is to just get one of the DC motors with speed controlthat Skip (from the Yahoo ER group) sells. Then, since you wont need the speed changer anymore, you could just send that to me!

AFTER he restores it I assume!:D

Haven't really started the restoration on the ER10 yet but I have been thinking about how I am going to bring the red color back to the logo nameplate. You can see in the pic that it is very faded.



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Polishing compound DID NOT improve it. I tried it already.

The raised lettering is only .005" tall. I don't know how successful painting will be but then I have no idea of any other way to make it red again.

I wonder if it was originally painted or if it was a low viscosity ink.

Any ideas are welcome.

mickyd wrote:Haven't really started the restoration on the ER10 yet but I have been thinking about how I am going to bring the red color back to the logo nameplate. You can see in the pic that it is very faded.



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Polishing compound DID NOT improve it. I tried it already.

The raised lettering is only .005" tall. I don't know how successful painting will be but then I have no idea of any other way to make it red again.

I wonder if it was originally painted or if it was a low viscosity ink.

Any ideas are welcome.

Thinking back to my youth, I was working for a steel fabricator which was doing work for an engraving company. This 'plate' is similar to those used in that time frame(1950's). They were made by photo etching away the parts 'to be painted'. I do NOT recall totally, but I believe they also left the photo resist on until after painting. The paint on top of the resist was removed,by buffing I believe since the resist would not adhere as tightly as the paint. They did a LOT of buffing/polishing there.

This is REALLY foggy memory here, and as I was NOT actually involved myself in the process, these observations/conclusions may be incorrect. However my 'mind' was MUCH sharper then! Amazing the half century old somewhat trivial stuff 'stored' that comes out when I cannot remember 'why I came to this room and to do what'!:D

I do remember how to exit the room however - So there IS hope yet!

BTW they were processed in 'sheets' and were punched out LAST.

Mike,
You might wander over to http://www.owwm.com and check their forum boards. Some of the members there have made new badges by photo etching.

dicksterp wrote:Mike,
You might wander over to http://www.owwm.com and check their forum boards. Some of the members there have made new badges by photo etching.

Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't remember to post there. Getting a little scrambled juggling 4 different forums. I got a quick response from a couple of guys on how to best proceed so I am going to post links here and edit / add as they come up.

Here's my original post with them:

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=56036

This thread discusses removal methods and reconditioning the badges.
http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?t=21710

I've decided that I am going to attempt to recreate a logoplate using a chemical etch process similar to the way a printed circuit board is made. The original was most likely made with either a chemical etch or a photo-etch process. Both processes do the same thing. The difference is that way that each “masks” the surface prior to going into a chemical that etches the unmasked material away, leaving the lettering raised.

If you interested in seeing generally how it’s done, check out this 1 minute you tube clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fBlYEKqsRo

I am still going to try to paint the existing faded logoplate just to see how easy it will be to restore one of these things. The method I’ll try is spraying the entire face with red Rustoleum then sanding it on a flat surface with ~1000 grit sandpaper.

Well, the restoration journey has officially begun. I've spent a couple hours the past two nights disassembling and in several areas failing miserably to do so. First pic is to remind you what it looked like as purchased.
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This thing is INCREDIBLY rusty. Nothing moves on the way tubes, even with a persuader. I tried sanding away the way tube rust on one end of the headstock to see if I
could get any movement. Nothing, even with persuasion again. Next pic is just to show you that I really AM working on it. This assembly weighs 90 lbs.
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My plans had been to put the whole way tube assembly shown above into the electrolysis tank as is but I can't because of the speed changer being aluminum. Aluminum is sensitive to electrolysis and its recommend to only expose it for about 15 minutes and then check frequently for any signs of slight pitting or discoloration. That just won't work. I'll probably just stand the thing up in a plastic kitchen garbage container and fill it with the electrolyte solution (washing soda and water) to just below the aluminum parts. I'll take any suggestions on how I am going to get the speed changer component to budge from where it is over to the cleaned tube.

Here's some other pics that shows the severity of rust. In this next picture, I am unable to get the aluminum caps on the end of the quill feed off. Soaked them in WD just to see if that helps. I'll know tomorrow.
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This picture below really shows how heavy the rust is on the way tubes and other metal parts.
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The last area that I am having problems with is the motor. I am trying to take it apart to inspect the bearings. I was able to get the front cover off to inspect the front bearing but I can't get the back cover off to check the rear bearing. I think that the rear bearing may be frozen into the back cover and that's the reason I can't get the cover off. I have a post up on the ER10 users site but haven't gotten a response since I posted at 2:PM:( .

That's all I have for tonight. Hopefully some progress by the weekend.

Mike thanks for the updates. Boy that is some UGLY rust on the way tubes. Hope you can get it disassembled and recover them successfully.