Lower bandsaw wheel bearing lack of resistance

[chapmanruss]

David,

You said

I did this on a 2003 BS that I never use because it lacks the tool-free blade access capability of its predecessors. I'm thinking this can be easily corrected.

Are you referring to the use of screws as opposed to the knobs that hold the cover on the Bandsaw? If so, you can change it to the knobs. You can get both the knobs and the threaded posts to do so like the older Bandsaws have. Or use headless screws into the posts to provide the threaded ends for the knobs with the newer posts. Or use knobs with male threaded ends to screw into the current OEM female threaded posts.

Sorry the above is a bit off topic again.

When I had the two Lower Wheel Assemblies out of their respective Bandsaws yesterday, I didn't notice any discernable difference in how they spin but I really wasn't looking for that either.

David said

Typically these water pump style bearings exhibit long life.

I agree. Out of 11 Bandsaws ranging from 1956 to 2006 I have yet to have a bad Lower Wheel Bearing.

[DLB]

David,

You said

I did this on a 2003 BS that I never use because it lacks the tool-free blade access capability of its predecessors. I'm thinking this can be easily corrected.

Are you referring to the use of screws as opposed to the knobs that hold the cover on the Bandsaw? If so, you can change it to the knobs. You can get both the knobs and the threaded posts to do so like the older Bandsaws have.

Yes, that's what I was referring to. I dislike the screws and the washers (mine are like plastic fender washers, which aren't durable). Are you saying you can get the standoff posts with male threads on both ends like the 'old' ones? I looked once and didn't find them. But I can use threaded rod or cut offs from bolts, with a bit of loc-tite they should be fine. Knobs are easy. I do like the other features of the latest cover and the rest of this BS is in great condition.

- David

[edma194]

Is that supposed to be a change for safety reasons, or just saving on the price of knobs? As long as the saw can be run without the cover on it's not doing much for safety.

[JPG]

Blame safety types. Removing a cover now requires a tool!

[edma194]

Blame safety types. Removing a cover now requires a tool!

Making it more difficult to put back on. At least the new ones come with a window and a hole for adjusting tension.

[chapmanruss]

David you asked,

Are you saying you can get the standoff posts with male threads on both ends like the 'old' ones? I looked once and didn't find them. But I can use threaded rod or cut offs from bolts, with a bit of loc-tite they should be fine. Knobs are easy. I do like the other features of the latest cover and the rest of this BS is in great condition.

David, as for getting replacement posts with both ends threaded like the old ones that would have to be found on the used market. A new one, part number 502546 called the Cover Stud, is no longer available from Shopsmith.

The change of how the cover is attached using screws requiring a 5/32" Allen Wrench versus the old knobs is one of the safety changes that occurred, I believe, sometime around the early 2000's. As I understand it using a tool to remove the cover was something required for safety for Shopsmith tools sent across the "pond" as they say (Atlantic Ocean).

My main Bandsaw, a 1998, has the original knobs but I have upgraded to the newest cover. I like it that way even though I still have to keep the "Shopsmith Toolbox" handy to adjust the blade tension. My 2006 BS, which is stored, has the screw and plastic washers. I am not a fan of the plastic washers as two were cracked when I purchased it with a Mark V a few years ago. Not very good for a tool that at the time I purchased it was less than 14 years old. I have replaced the plastic washers. They currently cost $5.95 each. A bit spendy for a piece of plastic. Something I would not need to do if they still had the knobs. They only need to be replaced if they "wander off" in the shop.

[paulrussell]

Jumping back to the original question for a moment. You should consider spinning the bearing outer race on the shaft with the whole thing removed from the bandsaw. This might be a more reliable indicator of a free spinning bearing. I checked mine both ways, and the wheel gives it a lot of inertia that might make it appear to spin too freely. Typically these water pump style bearings exhibit long life.

I did that and you are correct. I also found a post in an automotive forum saying that the rotational stiffness reduces as the tight water seal breaks in and not to confuse that with bearing failure. I'm now of the mindset that this is the case with my bandsaw.
Much thanks to all who contributed!

[JPG]

Whew!

[edma194]

I looked at 2 bandsaws and the lower wheel spun freely on both. I'm looking for a couple of old water pump bearings I have from a headstock and a strip sander. I recall one was noticeably grinding. The other one came from a strip sander, I replaced it with one with a longer shaft so I could mount it on the right side of the headstock, don't remember the condition of the old one.

[JPG]

I looked at 2 bandsaws and the lower wheel spun freely on both. I'm looking for a couple of old water pump bearings I have from a headstock and a strip sander. I recall one was noticeably grinding. The other one came from a strip sander, I replaced it with one with a longer shaft so I could mount it on the right side of the headstock, don't remember the condition of the old one.

Ohhhhhhh! Source?????