Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 7:42 pm
WHAT was the muskrat doing in the electrical panel?:eek:
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The Horseshoe Project
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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 7:59 pm
I was stripping some wires in a tight spot. In my defense I did check with my multi meter and thought it was off. What was off was the battery in my meter. I used it a couple of years ago dang that energizer bunny any way.
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:08 pm
Ever hear of 'wire strippers'?:) Remember the circuit you 'THINK' is OFF is the one that BITES!:rolleyes:mbcabinetmaker wrote:I was stripping some wires in a tight spot. In my defense I did check with my multi meter and thought it was off. What was off was the battery in my meter. I used it a couple of years ago dang that energizer bunny any way.
Your statement re 20A has me confused. Surely that was only one branch circuit of many?
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:21 pm
I don't have any tools in my tool box with arc marks!:rolleyes:mbcabinetmaker wrote:Well not much accomplished on the project today. I had a breaker go bad so spent most of the day replacing it and running a couple of dedicated circuits to my two shop vacs. It was one of those that caused the problem. I didn't realize they pull 10 amps, and I use them for dust collection and clean up. That along with about any other tool on a circuit exceeds the 20 amp service.
[ATTACH]4428[/ATTACH]
This picture is why I am a cabinetmaker and not an electrician. Fried my new case muskrat.
[ATTACH]4429[/ATTACH]
I did manage to get a little done this is a picture of a 4 x 8 sheet of the bending plywood.
[ATTACH]4430[/ATTACH]
This is one of 2 layers of bender board clamped up. I have learned that in radius work to use lots of glue and clamps.
[ATTACH]4431[/ATTACH]
Laminate comes in rolled up. I like to let it lay flat and relax before cutting. It will be there Monday. Tomorrow I have to ride all the way down to the famous Dillard House restaurant in Dillard Ga with the motorcycle group. I sure do dread it.
And I do pay attention. I switched from head notes to foot notes. It does make for a better read.
Mark
About two years ago, I broke down my tool boxes and equipped the grand kids with three pretty good tool boxes. They have all of the arc marks on their tools.
Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 9:24 pm
JPG
I have many circuits but the one shop vac serves the powermatic band saw and a couple of others. It was running off the same circuit. I don't like to have to plug and unplug equipment so everything has a place to plug in. I only run one piece of equipment at a time so there may be several plugged in any given circuit. The problem is I was running the vac and the band saw at the same time. Now both vacs have dedicated 20 amp services and I will order a new muskrat! I was actually in the attic when this occurred and didn't want to crawl all the way back to get my wire strippers. I should have done so and doubled checked the breaker!;)
I have many circuits but the one shop vac serves the powermatic band saw and a couple of others. It was running off the same circuit. I don't like to have to plug and unplug equipment so everything has a place to plug in. I only run one piece of equipment at a time so there may be several plugged in any given circuit. The problem is I was running the vac and the band saw at the same time. Now both vacs have dedicated 20 amp services and I will order a new muskrat! I was actually in the attic when this occurred and didn't want to crawl all the way back to get my wire strippers. I should have done so and doubled checked the breaker!;)
Starting the laminate
Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 7:06 pm
Picking up on the fillers. I apply the bender board over sized and trim it with a router. I'm using 2 layers for to achieve the durability needed.
[ATTACH]4457[/ATTACH]
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I use a trim bit with a tilt base router set at 5 degrees to trim the binder board. This will cut it a little long and later I'll sand it flush.
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Before starting the laminate sand with 80 grit to get a smooth surface.
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I use spray grade contact cement. It will spray in a regular cup gun but not a gravity feed gun. Here I am using a 2 gallon pressure pot.
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I have cut the laminate 2 inches over sized both on the height and width. Here to start the sticking process I clamp a piece of scrap plywood along the starting edge. This will give me 3/4" to route off and insure the laminate is on straight. Once it sticks it is stuck! It better be right.
[ATTACH]4457[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]4458[/ATTACH]
I use a trim bit with a tilt base router set at 5 degrees to trim the binder board. This will cut it a little long and later I'll sand it flush.
[ATTACH]4459[/ATTACH]
Before starting the laminate sand with 80 grit to get a smooth surface.
[ATTACH]4460[/ATTACH]
I use spray grade contact cement. It will spray in a regular cup gun but not a gravity feed gun. Here I am using a 2 gallon pressure pot.
[ATTACH]4461[/ATTACH]
I have cut the laminate 2 inches over sized both on the height and width. Here to start the sticking process I clamp a piece of scrap plywood along the starting edge. This will give me 3/4" to route off and insure the laminate is on straight. Once it sticks it is stuck! It better be right.
Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 7:18 pm
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Now I roll the laminate down.
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After trimming I re-set the clamps and boards. I'll let this set overnight.
Mark
[ATTACH]4463[/ATTACH]
Now I roll the laminate down.
[ATTACH]4464[/ATTACH]
After trimming I re-set the clamps and boards. I'll let this set overnight.
Mark
Applying and trimming the edgebanding
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 4:30 pm
These cabinets are framless in design. All edges must have laminate edge banding.
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Cabinet ends stacked and glued along with edge banding strips.
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After edge banding is stuck I'll apply past wax before routing.
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This is a solid carbide trim bit. I prefer it over the bearing type for laminate.
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This is one of my favorite Shopsmith accessories.
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I will trim all the smaller pieces on this set up. It is faster and easier than the hand held trim router.
Mark
[ATTACH]4469[/ATTACH]
Cabinet ends stacked and glued along with edge banding strips.
[ATTACH]4468[/ATTACH]
After edge banding is stuck I'll apply past wax before routing.
[ATTACH]4470[/ATTACH]
This is a solid carbide trim bit. I prefer it over the bearing type for laminate.
[ATTACH]4471[/ATTACH]
This is one of my favorite Shopsmith accessories.
[ATTACH]4472[/ATTACH]
I will trim all the smaller pieces on this set up. It is faster and easier than the hand held trim router.
Mark
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 5:27 pm
You said that you apply paste wax before completing the edge band routing.
Am I to conclude that you believe you get a smoother cut after waxing?
I have that router table too but someone cannibalized a t-track from mine. I think it might be in an outfeed table now.
Am I to conclude that you believe you get a smoother cut after waxing?
I have that router table too but someone cannibalized a t-track from mine. I think it might be in an outfeed table now.
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 8:01 pm
Dusty
The wax keeps the solid router bit from burning or marking the plastic laminate. I don't like to use a bearing bit for routing plastic. I have had a number of problems with them ranging from the cutter cutting proud or the bearing to the bearing actually coming loose and ruining the piece. Also the bearings are bad to build up with the glue over spray. You have none of these problems with the solid carbide bits but you have to protect the laminate with the wax. It all has to be cleaned up with lacquer thinner anyway to remove the glue over spray and wax.
Mark
The wax keeps the solid router bit from burning or marking the plastic laminate. I don't like to use a bearing bit for routing plastic. I have had a number of problems with them ranging from the cutter cutting proud or the bearing to the bearing actually coming loose and ruining the piece. Also the bearings are bad to build up with the glue over spray. You have none of these problems with the solid carbide bits but you have to protect the laminate with the wax. It all has to be cleaned up with lacquer thinner anyway to remove the glue over spray and wax.
Mark