speed changer help

[myfathersworkshop]

"Below is a restored Speed Changer" that, is sweet! Russ, thank you for going above and beyond. You've given me a lot to study on. My speed changer should be here first part of next week so I have some time to get familiar. The seller has been difficult to deal with and even now his Shopsmith listing still shows the speed changer in many of the photos.

[myfathersworkshop]

The speed changer arrived today, time to start cleaning, ordered the motor pulley and belts from MKC.

[JPG]

Yes it 'looks' rough, but is an excellent candidate for restoration. One thing I noticed is the different lengths of the adjustment rod springs. Wonder if they are the same length 'at rest?

[myfathersworkshop]

May have the springs off in a bit, what problem would that cause, if they are different lengths?

[JPG]

Their purpose is to allow control changes that do not create an interference(breaking ears) caused by delayed response. Ideally I think the same 'tension' going either direction is desired which requires identical reaction by each spring. Yours appears to have a 'weaker' spring on the front.

In any event one MUST observe the springs compressing and avoid full compression.

[jsburger]

I have 5 speed changers here. The springs all look kind of that way until they are cleaned up. I doubt anyone has changed the springs over the years. You are pushing one spring and releasing the other when you adjust the speed changer. They may find an equilibrium but maybe not always. If the speed changer was left in the push mode until it froze up one spring will be compressed more than the other one until you free up everything. I don't know where the neutral position is in normal operation.

[JPG]

If there are no belts/pulley mounted, the neutral position should be 'always'.(ignoring any effect of pivot resistance)

[jsburger]

OK I guess that proves the point.

[myfathersworkshop]

So far today. I did change the bushings, everything else has been just cleaning up best I can.

[chapmanruss]

Your restoration is coming along. The Pulley Assembly looks great but will need some adjusting as per the instructions in my earlier post. The Screw Assembly, specifically the springs look usable since neither is compressed when not on the assembly. The springs do look to be different lengths. The springs have equal space between the coils, just one is longer. Possibly they were replaced at some point and cut to slightly different lengths. The only problem I have seen with the springs is the locking nut being put on too tight and compressing the springs making them useless in the Assembly. You could tighten that nut on your Speed Changer a bit more, so the thread end barely peeks out of the nut. You want to have the locking part of the nut to engage the shaft's threads to keep the nut from turning and coming off. If this begins to compress the springs, you could shorten the longer spring some to match the other spring. That would give more room for the nut to be on the threads correctly. Do not take off more of the spring than needed. The lock nut when correctly positioned on the end of the threaded shaft should keep the springs from moving on the shaft but not compress them.

I am surprised to see the Screw Assembly remounted inward as opposed to outward as you received it. I mentioned the difference in mounting it in a previous post. Originally, they came with the Screw Assembly mounted inward and later they came mounted outward on the "ears" which stopped the interference with the Headstock Way Tube Lock. The majority of the 12 Speed Changers I have restored came with the Screw Assembly mounted inward. Below shows the Speed Changer Crank Assembly mounted inward (closest to the Headstock) and notice it hitting the Lever of the Headstock Way Tube Lock. When locked the Lever of the Headstock Way Tube Lock could be anywhere in that 360-degree travel.

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Speed Changer Crank inboard.jpg (174.22 KiB) Viewed 2512 times

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Below is the Screw Assembly mounted outward, away from the Headstock. The crank easily clears the Headstock Way Tube Locks Lever.

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Speed Changer Crank outboard.jpg (136.42 KiB) Viewed 2512 times

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That is the same Model 10ER in both pictures. It is the first one I restored. It has the extra 5" Pulley added to the Motor Shaft for the Model 4E Jointer.

I can't tell from your pictures but is it just missing the screw to hold the Speed Indicator at the top or is a screw broken off?