Shop Made Set-up Gauge

[curiousgeorge]

Digital can be found here http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=93295

and custom mounts can be found here http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=354&PMCTLG=00

I dont want to take away from CuriousGeorge's post but to save some Oak and a little bit of time you could do this. In my miter gauge for the Shop Smith you have a 1/4 hole in the side that has a set screw to lock a 1/4 bar in. I dont know what it is actually used for but its there on both sides. If you were to take a 1/4 bolt say 6 inches long and cut off the head you would be able to insert this end into the miter guage. Now with the other end (threaded) you could put 2 washers and 2 bolts to sandwich the dial indicator onto it. The dial indicator mounting hole on the back is 1/4 as well so it will fit snugly.

Your idea will probably work fine, but my scrap oak runner has absolutely no slop what so ever. Can you say that about your miter bar?
Also, by the time it takes to cut off the head of that bolt, I have already made and assembled my scrap wood parts. If time is that important to you, why not use a threaded rod instead of cutting the head off a bolt?

[judaspre1982]

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[dicksterp]

[quote="tdubnik"]This is true if you are trying to measure absolute distances. If the plunger is tilted or skewed the measurement won't be absolute.

If, however you are trying to true up a miter slot to the saw blade or the fence to the miter gauge]


This is called the cosine factor. Well known in the toolmaking trade. If angled, use for ref. only. If you need to move a specific distance, make sure the plunger is in line with the direction of movement.

[robinson46176]

Really great George.
Now all you need to do is rout all of the edges and decide what color stain you want to use on it before putting on two coats of poly...
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Definitely a very useful jig.