Headstock Reassembly Idler Shaft

[mmorris]

I have a brand new chromebook and haven't figured out how to decrease the size of the jpeg where it will attach. Sorry.

When I turn the drive shaft clockwise the belt moves away from the bearings and then vice versa. When it contacts the idler shaft bearing there is a noticeable increase in resistance.

[JPG]

I have a brand new chromebook and haven't figured out how to decrease the size of the jpeg where it will attach. Sorry.

When I turn the drive shaft clockwise the belt moves away from the bearings and then vice versa. When it contacts the idler shaft bearing there is a noticeable increase in resistance.

Try 'IRFANVIEW'.
http://download.cnet.com/IrfanView/

[mmorris]

Sorry, can't download items to a chromebook; only have Google apps.

[JPG]

[quote="mmorris"]Sorry, can't download items to a chromebook]

So is there photo editing 'ap' for the chromebook?

Can you attach photos to an e-mail? I could resize (and post them?)them for you or send back resized pix as an attachment.

[mmorris]

Here they are?

[ATTACH]23450[/ATTACH]http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/images/ ... TACH]23450[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]23451[/ATTACH]

[triumph_tech]

I'm reassembling and old greenie that has the clamp bolt holding the eccentric bearing in place. The eccentric bearing should be installed flush with outside of the headstock casting correct? On mine, if it is installed flush I can't get the Gilmer belt to keep from riding right against the idler shaft bearing and the inner drive sleave bearing. Shouldn't it ride in the more to the inside? If so, how can it be adjusted? I have adjusted the belt tension to about 1/4 inch deflection. Thanks.

I found when I assembled my early greenie, when the keepers were properly installed on the eccentric, the bushing and bearing were not flush with the housing but protruded about an 1/8". When I got the MkV the PO had left the keepers out and installed the bushing flush. The gilmer belt was like in your pictures and the edge was shreaded from running too close to the housing. I installed a new belt, put the keepers back in ( big ends facing out) that moved the bearing and eccentric out by an 1/8" and the belt was now better centered on the shaft. If you have an early greenie with the keepers you should also have the early sand cast headstock housing without the inspection hole and the area of the housing that clamps the eccentric isn't quite as deep as the later ones.

[mmorris]

So is there photo editing 'ap' for the chromebook?

Can you attach photos to an e-mail? I could resize (and post them?)them for you or send back resized pix as an attachment.

I'm sure there is an app for that, I'm just a few days into the new learning curve for this thing. I use Picasa, which is/was a google program, but it's not working on this HP chromebook.
I sent the above photos from my old laptop w/Picasa.

[triumph_tech]

[quote="mmorris"]BTW, on the above greenie, when the clamp bolt is tightened securely (I know you're not supposed to tighten it a lot or the casting will crack), the eccentric bearing keepers are not tight]

And yes they are a little loose and wiggle a bit, not a problem with mine so far.

[billmayo]

Sometimes the Gilmer belt will be positioned to far to the back of the headstock so the back of the Gilmer belt tries to ride up on the Gilmer clutch pulley housing. This will fray and damage the Gilmer belt. I investigated the reason and found that the 2 clips holding the eccentric bushing may set the eccentric bushing with the idler shaft too far back in the headstock. I seat the eccentric bushing against the longer leg of the clips and move/tap the idler shaft with the Gilmer belt forward while hand turning the quill shaft the same direction (important) as the motor does. This is with the eccentric bushing bolt and set screw still loose. I go for about 1/16” to 1/8" gap between the Gilmer belt and the drive sleeve pulley shoulder. I tighten the eccentric bushing set screw and adjust the Gilmer belt of 1/16"-1/8" deflection and tighten the eccentric bushing bolt (not too tight, I normally just flatten the lock washer). This may set the Idler Shaft Bearing any where for 0” to ¼” deep into the eccentric bushing. I make sure the Gilmer belt stays tracking really close to the Idler Sheave pulley shoulder. I use a ¼” Knurl-Grip Cup Point Set Screw to securely hold the Idler Shaft bearing within the eccentric bushing for both the Gilmer and Poly-V Drive systems. Do not use the cone point set screw that came in the eccentric bushing for the Gilmer Drive system. This cone point set screw can deform the Idler Shaft Bearing resulting in noise and failure.

I operate the headstock for some time to may sure the Gilmer belt is not touching or creeping toward the drive sleeve pulley shoulder.

[mmorris]

I found when I assembled my early greenie, when the keepers were properly installed on the eccentric, the bushing and bearing were not flush with the housing but protruded about an 1/8". When I got the MkV the PO had left the keepers out and installed the bushing flush. The gilmer belt was like in your pictures and the edge was shreaded from running too close to the housing. I installed a new belt, put the keepers back in ( big ends facing out) that moved the bearing and eccentric out by an 1/8" and the belt was now better centered on the shaft. If you have an early greenie with the keepers you should also have the early sand cast headstock housing without the inspection hole and the area of the housing that clamps the eccentric isn't quite as deep as the later ones.

Yes, I have two 1954 Mark Vs, both originally without inspection holes but I did remedy that. I rebuilt the other one a couple of years ago; I guess I could pull off the cover and see how I installed that bearing. I think there is too much resistance to movement with it rubbing on the bearing. Installing the eccentric bushing 1/8 inch out from the housing makes sense to me. When I installed a new gilmer belt on the other one a few years back, the instructions said to install the e. bearing flush with the housing.