Shopsmith Table Saw Quality?

[a1gutterman]

Welcome Seth,

As others have reported to you, the SS table saw is very accurate when set up and adjusted properly. I also highly recommend it, and like the farmer, I too use another single purpose table saw, mostly for large panels. But the thing to remember is that I have the room for one, and it sounds as if you will knot. Large panels are possible to cut with a SS too, but you may want to acquire some help cutting them and some kind of outfeed and/or infeed support. We all aim to help you with answers if you but ask. Since you mention buying used, I recommend either upgrading to, or just starting out with, at least the 510 table system.

[shydragon]

As some have mentioned, if you can get a 520, that would be the best way to go. I have the 510, but have added the Incra Ultra TSIII fence system.

Yes, there are times, I wish I had a stand alone tablesaw, but at this time I do not have the room for one. If you spend the time to be anal in setting up the machine, and the required maintenance, it is very accurate.

If you have issues, this is the place to come. Everyone is so helpful, you will usually find a solution.

[wallygoots]

Many thanks already to the wealth of responses I have received with such good info. I'll look to search as well and wanted to introduce myself anyhow.

My space is like 10' x 12' -- a cement floor laundry room with washer and dryer. However, I will very likely insulate my one slot garage before winter and set up a more permanent shop out there. I think I would have space for the Shopsmith, a standard table saw, large bandsaw, and planer/jointer out there if I can convince my wife to give up indoor parking.

So I'm looking at a 510 for less than $500. It is missing the lathe tool rest, however, that is available for about $20 online. I would most likely want the universal tool jig anyhow. It's sounding to me like this is a decent deal and that I could most certainly make many types of accurate cuts for smaller work on the Shopsmith. I will likely add a quality table saw later and dedicate the 510 to drill press, sander, lathe work. The scroll attachment and bandsaw attachment for Shopsmith does not interest me. My band saw has to be able to resaw at least 12" with a 1" blade for processing my own guitar wood. If I find the Shopsmith table saw to my liking, it may allow me to add other tools I need before I'm tempted by a standalone table saw.

Thanks for the welcome to the community. The good reports about the saw plus the new option mentioned with the Incra fence is sweet info.

Many thanks,
Seth

[robinson46176]

Some guys buy or make all manner of devices as support devices for their SS. I on the other hand keep saying that best support device for an SS is another SS. In other words you really need at least two... You still have a very small footprint and two of them makes for unreal flexibility.

Quoting myself from message #7 of this thread...
I keep telling people this but I almost never hear of anyone else using them this way. Sitting one (turned off) behind the one making the cut really does work great on long stuff or sheet goods. In fact I am quicker to use a Shopsmith to cut sheet goods than for most other tablesaw uses. I sit a second one behind the one cutting and sometimes even use its fence to help guide the cutting. I usually sit the back one a tiny bit lower than the front one. I have kept telling myself to make a set of connectors to connect the front and rear units together but I haven't done it yet. The connectors would then carry the material across the gap from one to the other. My memory really sucks but I think I recall someone here making something like that???
Last year I needed to rip a bevel on one edge of some 16'x2"x6"s. I cut them on my Ridgid TS3650 but used a SS as an out-feed support including using two SS fences which held the boards in side to side position both directions.

[wallygoots]

So, I went up today just to check it out. Here's the report and a question.

I ended up tinkering around with the tool and basically showing the guy how it works. He kept saying "I never knew it could do that!" and "Now that I hadn't thought of. That could be useful." Well, it's a 510 in decent condition for $475, so what the heck. About the same price as a cheap table saw. Motor seems to run smoothly and the tool looks to be in decent shape without missing or broken parts. Splendid!

And get this! I handed over the cash and brought it home in my CIVIC! I still can't believe I just bought a very capable drill press, 12" disc sander, full length lathe, and table saw on a mobile stand for less than $500 and hauled it home in my little 2000 Civic LX! Now that is versatility. I was thinking I'd have to rent a small truck to get it home.

My only gripe right now is the table for the saw is hard to get off and on. I figure a good lube up would greatly help as this machine has minor rust developing in some places. The machine came with Shopsmith general purpose oil. Is that what you use to wipe down your sliding surfaces like rails? Does that oil attract sawdust?

You all encouraged this purchase and I think I'm the type who will recognize it's unique strengths while quickly finding ways to adapt to weaknesses. Thanks for the input.

Cheers,
Seth

[JPG]

So, I went up today just to check it out. Here's the report and a question.

I ended up tinkering around with the tool and basically showing the guy how it works. He kept saying "I never knew it could do that!" and "Now that I hadn't thought of. That could be useful." Well, it's a 510 in decent condition for $475, so what the heck. About the same price as a cheap table saw. Motor seems to run smoothly and the tool looks to be in decent shape without missing or broken parts. Splendid!

And get this! I handed over the cash and brought it home in my CIVIC! I still can't believe I just bought a very capable drill press, 12" disc sander, full length lathe, and table saw on a mobile stand for less than $500 and hauled it home in my little 2000 Civic LX! Now that is versatility. I was thinking I'd have to rent a small truck to get it home.

My only gripe right now is the table for the saw is hard to get off and on. I figure a good lube up would greatly help as this machine has minor rust developing in some places. The machine came with Shopsmith general purpose oil. Is that what you use to wipe down your sliding surfaces like rails? Does that oil attract sawdust?

You all encouraged this purchase and I think I'm the type who will recognize it's unique strengths while quickly finding ways to adapt to weaknesses. Thanks for the input.

Cheers,
Seth

Oil does indeed accumulate saw dust. For the 'sliding' parts Johnson's ORIGINAL paste wax applied thinly, allowed to 'dry' and then buff out(it will provide a 'slippery' surface). Gently remove any rust. Fine steel wool will do it if NOT overly aggressive. The yellow can with the red stripe is THE ONE! Clean(wipe down with mineral spirits) before waxing.

P.S. ALL tubes and the holes they 'slide' in need the wax treatment. AND the quill shaft.

[fjimp]

My only gripe right now is the table for the saw is hard to get off and on. I figure a good lube up would greatly help as this machine has minor rust developing in some places. The machine came with Shopsmith general purpose oil. Is that what you use to wipe down your sliding surfaces like rails? Does that oil attract sawdust?

You all encouraged this purchase and I think I'm the type who will recognize it's unique strengths while quickly finding ways to adapt to weaknesses. Thanks for the input.

Cheers,
Seth

Congratulations Seth, Before you go so far with lubricating and running your machine there a few cautions I and several others will suggest. First do not use oil on the tables and tubes. Most of us use The "Original" formula of Johnson's paste wax. Oil on tubes and tables tends to migrate to wood making finishing impossible. I purchased a 510 used a few months ago. The table was stuck solid. I discovered the entire table, tubes and mechanisms were really packed with dirt and grease. I also found the tubes and legs were not properly assembled. I used wax to clean tables and tubes and in a few cases some rubbing alcohol followed by paste wax. I disassembled everything and cleaned, waxed, waxed and waxed some more. Then I checked everything to be certain it was properly aligned. Once reassembled all worked perfectly. Assuming you received a munual read it. The instructions for properly servicing it are there. If that manual is missing you can either call shopsmith and order one or check ebay. Buying from Shopsmith will insure a later version. If you are in a hurry check to website for sawdust sessions. Nick Engler did several tutorials on the subjects you are interesting. Finally you really need to clean and lubricate the headstock prior to use. This will save you big bucks and much heart break. Good luck with making sawdust. fjimp

[a1gutterman]

Reinforcing what others have told you: Use the Johnson's Original Formula paste wax on all "sliding areas". You do need to oil the sheaves according to your owners manual instructions, or watch these Sawdust Sessionsfor more lubricating and other advice.

[wallygoots]

I've taken notes from your responses and will read the manual. Certainly then I'll go for the Johnson's Original Wax. Just buff out by hand with a clean cloth I assume?

Don't know what a headstock is yet, but I'm sure that will be covered in the manual.

Thank you for taking the time to help me get a handle on practical ownership issues. It's nice not to have to learn from experience that involve "oops!" when I can.

Best,
Seth

[a1gutterman]

...Don't know what a headstock is yet, but I'm sure that will be covered in the manual...

You wood find out for yourself, but the headstock is the housing that includes the motor, sheaves, speed control, quill, etc. It is the rather large item that slides along the way tubes(the two upper round tubes).