New Old Belt Sander

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tryinhard
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Duct tape?

Post by tryinhard »

Won't the backing of the duct tape at some point start to melt from the friction of passing repeatedly over the belt sander table?
rbenstead
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Thin CA

Post by rbenstead »

Apply thin CA glue to the back side of the seam on the ones that aren't broke yet. That stuff wicks into anything. You don't need a lot of it. To much would make a stiff spot on it. I have done it with medium CA on a broken belt and I have about a hour of running time on it and so far it's still together. Results may vary.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

tryinhard wrote:Won't the backing of the duct tape at some point start to melt from the friction of passing repeatedly over the belt sander table?
I don't know. It might. But the tape won't "melt" unless it gets hot. My sanding belts don't get hot unless I put too much pressure on the belt.
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dkerfoot
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Post by dkerfoot »

rbenstead wrote:Apply thin CA glue to the back side of the seam on the ones that aren't broke yet. That stuff wicks into anything. You don't need a lot of it. To much would make a stiff spot on it. I have done it with medium CA on a broken belt and I have about a hour of running time on it and so far it's still together. Results may vary.
Very much what I was thinking. I'll try one with duct tape and one with CA and see which (if either) works best. It may be a while before I report back. This project is nearly done and now that we have clear skies forecast, outside painting beckons... :(


-Doug
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dkerfoot wrote:Very much what I was thinking. I'll try one with duct tape and one with CA and see which (if either) works best. It may be a while before I report back. This project is nearly done and now that we have clear skies forecast, outside painting beckons... :(


-Doug
The duct tape is thick enough to create a bump as the belt rotates. It also stays pliable so the belt WILL grow in length. Thin CA sounds good. Perhaps packing tape(being thin) would work to HELP the CA hold.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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chucks
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Post by chucks »

JPG40504 wrote:The duct tape is thick enough to create a bump as the belt rotates. It also stays pliable so the belt WILL grow in length. Thin CA sounds good. Perhaps packing tape(being thin) would work to HELP the CA hold.


CA glue? I know I've seen this referenced before...but could someone refresh my memory. What is it?
Chucks in Phoenix Mark V(5), Mark VII(2),Power Pro, Planer, Crafter Station, Jointer,Bandsaw(3),Lathe Duplicator,Belt Sander,Jig Saw,DC3300(2),"Sears Router Crafter", Post Drill, Stand alone Overarm Router. Jointmatic ++++,
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

CA = super glue.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

beeg wrote:CA = super glue.
Key word here is THIN ca glue. The thin ca glue is what it used to be b4 some idiot(s?) thought making it a gel was good idea. Methinks too many folks were gluing their fingers and other body parts together, so they made it thicker to make it easier to separate said body parts without a razor blade since it wouldn't bond as well and the gel slowed down the 'setting'.

The 'original' theory behind cyanoacrylic glue was that it created a very good bond due to its not being thick between the parts being bonded. The less glue used(thinner) the better the bond.

Add to that the property of heat being an accelerator of the 'setting' process and you can see why fingers and body parts were being very securely stuck to each other.

The thin stuff sets in seconds (less than 10 if heat from your breath blowing on it is used).

I have been frustrated the past few years with the 'super glue' in those tiny tubes that were thick and IMHO worthless since it rarely worked as well as the 'original' thin stuff.

LO and BEHOLD! Woodcraft sells it(as well as differing viscosities and I assume setting time) in a decent size bottle(for all you spaulted wood pen turners).

I used some yesterday, and the good old days are back!!!!!!! The thin ca glue is just like the original Eastman 910!!!

I Be a very happy camper again! Now if only these wrinkles, grayness and other attributes were replaceable from Woodcraft also!:D
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
paul269
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Post by paul269 »

CA is the abbreviation or acronym for CyanoAcrylate
rbenstead
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Resource for Thin CA

Post by rbenstead »

If your looking for thin CA , go to any hobby store. This is the main glue that is used now days for model RC kit building. You can get 1/2 oz, 1 oz, and 2 oz bottles in thin,medium, and thick. As a followup from my last post. I have over 4 hr on a reglued seperated belt. The key is to scuff the old glue off the belt. Then use some rubbing alcohol to clean it. Let it dry. I used some masking tape to hold the belt ends in position. Double check it before glueing.There won't be a second try.To keep your fingers from becoming part of the sanding belt you can lay some wax paper on the joint while holding firm pressure. Takes about 5-10 seconds. Caution! CA fumes are nasty. Don't be holding you head over it. Small fan helps.
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