Shopsmith Forums

scooters wrote:
What do you use for the dry lube. Is Shopsmith's Topkote appropriate?

I have been using LPS Force-842 Dry Moly Lubricant for the past year. It leaves a dark metalic coating that drys hard and looks good. I use it as a lubricant on the speed control parts, carriage pinions, planer chain and posts.

I have been buying this product lately from http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/pro ... ductid=148. Prices vary quite widely for this product so it pays to shop if interested.

However, I find its main use for me is to use it on almost anything that will rust like arbors, drill chucks, lathe knives, joiner and planer knives after I clean all the rust off them. It does run if too much spray is used. I use very light spray coats to prevent runs. It even polishes somewhat leaving a really nice finish like the original factory finish.

Bill,
Thanks for the link. I've been looking for a good source for this for a couple of weeks.

Dusty,

Since you asked;

dusty wrote:...Since you made the point Tim...."What is the difference between a "dry lube" and a "spray on wax"?

Like I stated, some may disagree, but IMHO, wax is knot "dry". Graphite, to me is "dry". By definition, wax can knot be dry.

a1gutterman wrote:Dusty,

Since you asked]wax[/URL] is knot "dry". Graphite, to me is "dry". By definition, wax can knot be dry.

Your way tubes are WET???:D

Who says wax by definition can not be dry? Your wikipedia link identifies it as a LIPID! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lipid

JPG40504 wrote:Your way tubes are WET???:D

Who says wax by definition can not be dry? Your wikipedia link identifies it as a LIPID! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lipid

And the Wikipedia does knot list lipids as dry lubricants (see this link), nor is there any mention of "dry lubricant" in the Wikipedia page on lipids (see your link above). I did say that there might be some disagreement.

Planer #2 arrived today. This is the Shopsmith mounted unit.

It appears to be in very good condition. The shipper used commercial packing and "foam" to send it to me.

It fires right up and the table moves freely.

Overall condition is better than Shopsmith #1, the stand mounted unit.

Both are in good shape.

Not sure what I will do with the second unit.

Question: Infeed roller #1 has a ribbed rubber roller. 2 has more of a smooth rubber infeed roller. What is the diff? I suspect that I will try to get a new one if they can be found.

More info as it cools down (still around 100 degrees today).

scooters wrote:Planer #2 arrived today. This is the Shopsmith mounted unit.
Question: Infeed roller #1 has a ribbed rubber roller. 2 has more of a smooth rubber infeed roller. What is the diff? I suspect that I will try to get a new one if they can be found.

The new style infeed roller is serrated steel so neither sports the latest infeed roller. I have never seen a planer with a smooth infeed roller, but I have only seen four of them. If the roller was rubber it was ribbed.

I don't know why I keep screwing this up. The steel roller is infeed. The worn rubber roller is outfeed!

I've ordered a new outfeed roller and a blade alignment gauge.

At minimum, I'm going to create the "best" planer out of the two.
I will either keep, sell, or part out the other one.

The one I keep will be configured to use with the floor stand.

Here are the questions:
- Can the Shopsmith-mount machine be put on the power stand? Are there any problems doing this other than swapping the pully's etc?

-Which unit do I keep:
*The better unit has the aluminum table. It is close to new looking
*The poorer unit has some corrosion on the cast iron table. However, I can continue to clean it up. It may not look perfect, but is servicable.
*Which one should I use as my base to build on?

Yes the SS mount planer can be mounted on the stand. Mine is. I believe pulleys are the only things needing to be changed.

As to which unit to use, that is up to you. I have the aluminum table and it works fine for me. To clean rust off the the cast iron table, the OWWM boys mostly use WD40 with a razor blade, then scotchbrite and mineral spirits, then wax. depending on how much work you put into it you can get the table to look brand new.

I personally would keep the one which is better mechanically.

I would keep one for parts.

That little feed motor alone cost $472.37 to replace.