Fireplace Project Finished
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- Location: Greer SC
Great looking mantel.
How was it working with the madrone wood?
How was it working with the madrone wood?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
The wood was 5/4 & 6/4 about 8" wide x 8' long rough sawn. I filled my pickup for $200. He discounted because of cracks. So I did a lot of ripping to get to the better stuff. I found out that paying attention to the speed chart made a big difference. I was having trouble at first ripping 8' boards, causing the saw to bog down and getting a lot of burning. Then I went over to the speed chart and saw the listing for heavy ripping to be set at "O". I was set at "S". After making the adjustment, I got really straight beautiful cuts. Routing was a breeze, no problem there. Jointing, no problem there, but I have the shelix cutter head. Planing in the proplaner, a little different story. The grain in this wood, sometime it is going in so many different direction, so I would get a little tear out on those kind of pieces. I noticed that drilling this wood was troublesome. Very hard to drill, a lot of burning, except when I was using the Kreg pocket hole drill bit.
I would sure like to have the shelix in the proplaner. I saw on the woodnet forum, that if you contact Byrd, they will send you a form to fill out to give them dimension of the cutter head, etc. I believe the approx cost was $500. Is it worth it? Maybe, I filled up 11 garbage bags of wood shaving just on that project alone. I need to change blades now, I do have a new set, but, boy do I dread installing the new blades. This will be my 1st time changing out the blades.
Thanks everyone for the great comments. They certainly make me feel better about the design.
I would sure like to have the shelix in the proplaner. I saw on the woodnet forum, that if you contact Byrd, they will send you a form to fill out to give them dimension of the cutter head, etc. I believe the approx cost was $500. Is it worth it? Maybe, I filled up 11 garbage bags of wood shaving just on that project alone. I need to change blades now, I do have a new set, but, boy do I dread installing the new blades. This will be my 1st time changing out the blades.
Thanks everyone for the great comments. They certainly make me feel better about the design.
Pat
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
Thanks, I will check with the code dept. I like the ones you all have done. We just redid this wall, I still have to take the old paint of the brick. I may tile over it. As you can see the fireplace is not centered. It would be easier if it was. I think I want to go from door to door. Building a inset for the fire place tools on the right. Old house. Nothing is square! I will post as I go.
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Make today a day that lets you smile!
CV
Mobile Al.
MARK V 520 - Band saw and Jointer. DeWalt scroll saw.
CV
Mobile Al.
MARK V 520 - Band saw and Jointer. DeWalt scroll saw.
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5834
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
Shydragonshydragon wrote:The wood was 5/4 & 6/4 about 8" wide x 8' long rough sawn. I filled my pickup for $200. He discounted because of cracks. So I did a lot of ripping to get to the better stuff. I found out that paying attention to the speed chart made a big difference. I was having trouble at first ripping 8' boards, causing the saw to bog down and getting a lot of burning. Then I went over to the speed chart and saw the listing for heavy ripping to be set at "O". I was set at "S". After making the adjustment, I got really straight beautiful cuts. Routing was a breeze, no problem there. Jointing, no problem there, but I have the shelix cutter head. Planing in the proplaner, a little different story. The grain in this wood, sometime it is going in so many different direction, so I would get a little tear out on those kind of pieces. I noticed that drilling this wood was troublesome. Very hard to drill, a lot of burning, except when I was using the Kreg pocket hole drill bit.
I would sure like to have the shelix in the proplaner. I saw on the woodnet forum, that if you contact Byrd, they will send you a form to fill out to give them dimension of the cutter head, etc. I believe the approx cost was $500. Is it worth it? Maybe, I filled up 11 garbage bags of wood shaving just on that project alone. I need to change blades now, I do have a new set, but, boy do I dread installing the new blades. This will be my 1st time changing out the blades.
Thanks everyone for the great comments. They certainly make me feel better about the design.
Many questions
What is the wood?
Is that granite or something else between the firebox and the mantle?
Do I understand you to say you have shelix head on the your Shopsmith Jointer? If so where did you get it and how much?
Lastly is that sealed gas unit or does it just look that way?
By the way great work
Thanks in advance
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
The wood is Madrone, grows in the Pacific Northwest. The shelix head is on a Grizzly Jointer. Granite tile, 12X12". Some of it we cut on a tile saw that was from HarborFreight. I'm not sure what you mean by sealed gas. It is a gas fireplace insert.
Pat
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
Oregon
1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.