Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:39 pm
Chuck, you going to take in Six Flags???:Dcharlese wrote: (sent to you from Eureka, MO)
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Blade Gone Bad??
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Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:50 pm
Nope! not this year!:p Just the KOA! Guess 6 flags is having a concert of some type this weekend.lv2wdwrk wrote:Chuck, you going to take in Six Flags???:D
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:24 am
Dusty, I tend to agree with Ed in Tampa, this looks like heeling which indicates something is not square to the blade. Could you have bumped the table with the heavier board?
Big Ed
Big Ed
Blade Gone Bad?
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:58 am
This is going to be an interesting and educatational side trip (for me at least).
A lowered the table to a proper cut level, I set the speed to a proper speed ripping (O) and I did a couple test cuts. Pictures may follow.
It seems that I do have a problem that will not go away just because I want it to.
The nature of the cut did improve (fewer and less secure teeth marks) but I still do not get the clean, smooth cut that I am accustomed to with this blade.
These later cuts were made with smaller pieces and I got a little bit of chatter that could have tainted the cut results so I'll have to repeat the tests using more appropriate test samples.
charlese, yes the grain pattern does look odd but this is not composite material. It was purchased at Home Depot and I think was identified as western pine. However, it does not smell like pine so I don't know.
charlese - I hope you have a great vacation and a safe drive back home. May you avoid all of the bad weather from now on.
This is not the result of mal-alignment. I rechecked all of that before doing these last test cuts. The day before noticing this, I was making extreme sawdust for the purpose of evaluating my lower saw guard (dust collection) modifications. It seems to me that I would have noticed while doing that - but maybe not.
A lowered the table to a proper cut level, I set the speed to a proper speed ripping (O) and I did a couple test cuts. Pictures may follow.
It seems that I do have a problem that will not go away just because I want it to.
The nature of the cut did improve (fewer and less secure teeth marks) but I still do not get the clean, smooth cut that I am accustomed to with this blade.
These later cuts were made with smaller pieces and I got a little bit of chatter that could have tainted the cut results so I'll have to repeat the tests using more appropriate test samples.
charlese, yes the grain pattern does look odd but this is not composite material. It was purchased at Home Depot and I think was identified as western pine. However, it does not smell like pine so I don't know.
charlese - I hope you have a great vacation and a safe drive back home. May you avoid all of the bad weather from now on.
This is not the result of mal-alignment. I rechecked all of that before doing these last test cuts. The day before noticing this, I was making extreme sawdust for the purpose of evaluating my lower saw guard (dust collection) modifications. It seems to me that I would have noticed while doing that - but maybe not.
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:31 am
Does this pattern NOW appear with mdf? Did it appear when 'testing' dust collection cuts were made.(initially AND last cut?) Were you feeding slower with the mdf?
Did the blade encounter one of those @#%& staples?:(
Did the blade encounter one of those @#%& staples?:( Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:45 am
Dusty,
When you set back up for ripping again I know you will double-check all alignments. I was wondering about the splitter alignment also. It seems to me that if it shifted to the left a little bit, that could allow the stock to rub against the back of the blade if everything else wasn't perfect. I would try also try ripping a solid piece of stock with the same blade just to compare that to your laminated stock. I was just reading in the 2009 Wood Magazine Table Saw Tune-Up edition that they recommend offsetting the outfeed end of the fence to prevent cross-hatching marks or burning. (I think that this subject would be for a discussion on a separate thread). Since your problem has just started to happen, I hope you can figure out the cause of the change. Do you have a diffent combo blade or ripping blade to compare? Good luck, John McCrossen
When you set back up for ripping again I know you will double-check all alignments. I was wondering about the splitter alignment also. It seems to me that if it shifted to the left a little bit, that could allow the stock to rub against the back of the blade if everything else wasn't perfect. I would try also try ripping a solid piece of stock with the same blade just to compare that to your laminated stock. I was just reading in the 2009 Wood Magazine Table Saw Tune-Up edition that they recommend offsetting the outfeed end of the fence to prevent cross-hatching marks or burning. (I think that this subject would be for a discussion on a separate thread). Since your problem has just started to happen, I hope you can figure out the cause of the change. Do you have a diffent combo blade or ripping blade to compare? Good luck, John McCrossen
Blade Gone Bad??
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:07 am
No, I have not yet gone back to the MDF but I will.
John,
I have just come in from the shop after having made several test cuts with different blades.
I have three thin kerf blades and a regular kerf all of which are combination blades. The regular kerf has never been used before.
The results - are not totally pleasing. The wide kerf performs better than the others but it should. It has just been sharpened and never before used. There are some of the "unwanted" kerf marks with it as well.
CONCLUSION: The major contributor(s) to my unwanted symptoms I do not believe are the blade(s). While speed changes the nature of the test cuts, I don't believe rotation speed is the problem either.
Now I have to bite the bullet and pull out all of the alignment tools.
This will be delayed, somewhat, I have other "very demanding" requirements to be taken care of. The rest of my day is not mine to schedule. Tomorrow maybe.
John,
I have just come in from the shop after having made several test cuts with different blades.
I have three thin kerf blades and a regular kerf all of which are combination blades. The regular kerf has never been used before.
The results - are not totally pleasing. The wide kerf performs better than the others but it should. It has just been sharpened and never before used. There are some of the "unwanted" kerf marks with it as well.
CONCLUSION: The major contributor(s) to my unwanted symptoms I do not believe are the blade(s). While speed changes the nature of the test cuts, I don't believe rotation speed is the problem either.
Now I have to bite the bullet and pull out all of the alignment tools.
This will be delayed, somewhat, I have other "very demanding" requirements to be taken care of. The rest of my day is not mine to schedule. Tomorrow maybe.
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:53 am
Dusty,
Is it possible that some of the mods you made for your dust collection could be binding or throwing something out of alignment?
That is the only thing that strikes me as having changed since you were getting good cuts.
Is it possible that some of the mods you made for your dust collection could be binding or throwing something out of alignment?
That is the only thing that strikes me as having changed since you were getting good cuts.
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:25 pm
tdubnik- Good point! Maybe Dusty's got his system so airtight that the increased/redirected air flow past the blade is causing a problem. Maybe to test that, Dusty could open up another port on the DC3300 and see if the cut improves.
Gary
Gary
Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:42 pm
That's IT! The BACK of the blade is being sucked into the workpiece!:Dgreitz wrote:tdubnik- Good point! Maybe Dusty's got his system so airtight that the increased/redirected air flow past the blade is causing a problem. Maybe to test that, Dusty could open up another port on the DC3300 and see if the cut improves.
Gary
Maybe Ed's workpiece sucker will counter act it!:rolleyes: