Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
tango wrote:Oooo....kkkaaayy, ummm, so I guess it's fair to say that there is a bit of difference.
I uh, ahem, I really knew all that, just thought I'd test you guys out.
Thanks for clearing all that up for... um... whoever needed it.
I'm gonna go play in the dirt now
BEWARE! On this forum you will quite often get way far more information in an answer than you even knew existed!
One of the Good things about this forum!
Good Job Paul!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I have a OneWay strong hold (key type) and a Wood river (2 bar type), the key type is vastly superior, but the wood river is much less expensive to have multiple jaws (I use it with pin jaws) - everything is a trade off I guess.
If anyone finds a stronghold on craigslist or ebay or something and it doesn't have a 5/8 plain adapter, PM me, I have an extra (just the adapter) that I'll send to whomever covers postage.
JC
Hampden Twp, PA
Bought, restored and sold a 520 before I knew what I had (and should have kept) - Now I found religion and I'm working on restoring a 500 and a 10E.
affyx wrote:I have a OneWay strong hold (key type) and a Wood river (2 bar type), the key type is vastly superior, but the wood river is much less expensive to have multiple jaws (I use it with pin jaws) - everything is a trade off I guess.
If anyone finds a stronghold on craigslist or eBay or something and it doesn't have a 5/8 plain adapter, PM me, I have an extra (just the adapter) that I'll send to whomever covers postage.
By pin jaws do you mean very small? I have been unable to find a set of jaws to hold a 5/8" dowel securely. I was going to look into a Collet instead of a chuck. Beal has them that I can put on the Shopsmith.
There are several eBay stores that sell chucks at very reasonable prices that have been in business several years. They sell chucks with and without adapters (sometimes you just have to ask). These are new items in original boxes. I got my SuperNova2 that way for about $99 (no adapter and no jaws), where retail you always at least get one set of jaws. I was upgrading from a Nova Mini and already have 5 sets of jaws.
I now have two chuck bodies with one adapter, some day I may get the other adapter.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
I know I types 5/8" but what I wanted to type is 3/8". I find the 3/8" pin jaws pictured and others I have tried will not hold a 3/8" object securely.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
paulmcohen wrote:I know I types 5/8" but what I wanted to type is 3/8". I find the 3/8" pin jaws pictured and others I have tried will not hold a 3/8" object securely.
that is good to know. thanks.
just a thought, but if that 25mm jaw comes close, you might be able to cut a piece of sandpaper to go around the dowel once without overlapping. this would give a thin shim to the grip of the jaws and let it grip smaller than it wood otherwise.
Ivan
Mark V (84) w/ jigsaw, belt sander, strip sander
ER10 awaiting restoration
Paul- can you make a temporary sleeve with heat-shrink tubing (used for insulating electrical connections, among other things)? You can use multiple layers to get whatever thickness you want, then carefully cut it off your dowel with a razor blade when you're finished turning.
A lower-tech solution might be just carefully wrapping the dowel with masking tape, or wrapping each pin jaw with tape.
paulmcohen wrote:I know I types 5/8" but what I wanted to type is 3/8". I find the 3/8" pin jaws pictured and others I have tried will not hold a 3/8" object securely.
You also could use a jam chuck arrangement.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
paulmcohen wrote:I know I types 5/8" but what I wanted to type is 3/8". I find the 3/8" pin jaws pictured and others I have tried will not hold a 3/8" object securely.
Take a piece of 3/8" id tubing and cut it lengthwise end to end. This will give you a split tube with the ability to 'squeeze' something smaller than 3/8" and will possibly have an od larger than 3/8" by the thickness of the tube wall.
Slip the tube over the 3/8" item to be mounted, slip it into the chuck while aligning the 'slit' between two of the jaws. Not perfect, but more ridgid than tape or shrink tubing.
Hobby shops have tubing in progressive sizes that slide into each other like a telescoping car radio antenna(think a few years back). If the workpiece diameter is accurate, one(or more) might also work.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
