Shopsmith Forums

Yeah, I misspoke, err typed.

I found that my miter slot to blade was off by .004" It was my fence to miter slot that was off by .040".

I didn't end up adjusting the table at all. All I had to do was the fence, which was obviously way off.

JPG40504 wrote:Using your square plate method aligning the fence to the blade would be easier than fence to slot. If the slot is aligned to the blade, it is for all practical purposes the same.

I guess that what I do can be thought of as "aligning the fence to the blade" but I see it sorta different.

I adjust the table so that the miter gauge is perpendicular to the blade as evidenced by the tiny gap that exists between the "aluminum reference plate" and 1) the miter fence and 2) the blade. When this condition is achieved, the table is re-secured to the trunnions and the alignment is done.

I do align the rip fence to the miter slot. I have a piece of hardwood milled to fit a miter slot. It stands proud of the table top about 2". I slide the rip fence up against that piece of wood and check for that "tiny gap". If the gap is inconsistent the length of the fence, I then 1) loosen the fence, 2) clamp the fence to the wood runner, 3) re-secure the fence, 4) remove the clamps and 5) check for that "tiny gap".

I hardly ever have to adjust the rip fence. Once aligned, it seems to remain that way. More significant - I can move the rip fences between tables without concern for where they were aligned. This is curious to me because I have never done anything that could be construed as verification that the rails (on the various tables) are perpendicular to the miter slot.

[ATTACH]6955[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]6956[/ATTACH]

See that "Tiny Gap" - .002" - "definitely close enough for wood working"

dusty wrote:I guess that what I do can be thought of as "aligning the fence to the blade" but I see it sorta different.

I adjust the table so that the miter gauge is perpendicular to the blade as evidenced by the tiny gap that exists between the "aluminum reference plate" and 1) the miter fence and 2) the blade. When this condition is achieved, the table is re-secured to the trunnions and the alignment is done.

I do align the rip fence to the miter slot. I have a piece of hardwood milled to fit a miter slot. It stands proud of the table top about 2". I slide the rip fence up against that piece of wood and check for that "tiny gap". If the gap is inconsistent the length of the fence, I then 1) loosen the fence, 2) clamp the fence to the wood runner, 3) re-secure the fence, 4) remove the clamps and 5) check for that "tiny gap".

I hardly ever have to adjust the rip fence. Once aligned, it seems to remain that way. More significant - I can move the rip fences between tables without concern for where they were aligned. This is curious to me because I have never done anything that could be construed as verification that the rails (on the various tables) are perpendicular to the miter slot.

[ATTACH]6955[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]6956[/ATTACH]

See that "Tiny Gap" - .002" - "definitely close enough for wood working"

I fergit about the 'hardwood' alignment 'tool'. You are indeed aligning the fence to the slot!

I assume you are referring to 505 - 520 tables re consistant angle to slot. Tain't so with the older smaller '500' tables. The extrusion(to which the fence attaches) must be adjusted if more than one table is used. Since I sometimes use the Mark 5 fence(s) on the Bandsaw, that extrusion must also be made consistant with all the other tables - Same for all the fences I have. Please do not ask how many of each!

I adjust the table so that the miter gauge is perpendicular to the blade as evidenced by the tiny gap that exists between the "aluminum reference plate" and 1) the miter fence and 2) the blade. When this condition is achieved, the table is re-secured to the trunnions and the alignment is done.

Dusty, I'm just curious about your method in that it relies on the miter gauge face/fence being perpendicular to its bar and thereby the miter gauge slot. How do you ensure that?

Art

The answer to your question is dependent upon which miter gauge I am using.

If using the Incra V120, I trust the preset indicators on the miter gauge. These protractors are very accurate because of the way they were manufactured (laser cut).

If I am using the Shopsmith Miter Gauge, I am confident that I can make it (them, I have two) just as accurate by employing the Wixey. I clamp the bar in a bench vise, with the minor fence up. I then zero the Wixey while attached to the miter bar (which is vertical) and zero it. Then I move the Wixey to the face of the miter gauge and set it for 90 degrees (as read on the Wixey).

This whole procedure can be done just as accurately using just the MiterSet.

pennview wrote:Dusty, I'm just curious about your method in that it relies on the miter gauge face/fence being perpendicular to its bar and thereby the miter gauge slot. How do you ensure that?

Art

Good Question!]Table [/B]this way, the mitergauge MUST be correct(90°)!

JPG40504 wrote:Good Question!]If setting the Table this way, the mitergauge MUST be correct(90°)![/color]

And the V120 is just exactly that...very accurate at all of the preset angles.

pennview wrote:Dusty, I'm just curious about your method in that it relies on the miter gauge face/fence being perpendicular to its bar and thereby the miter gauge slot. How do you ensure that?

Art

Art,

If there is doubt about the miter gauge, when used in this manner and especially if a Wixey or MiterSet is not available, use a small carpenter's square or an engineering square.

To better communicate:

[ATTACH]6957[/ATTACH]
That "tiny gap" at the blade
[ATTACH]6958[/ATTACH]
That "tiny gap at the fence

The square is held in a kerf cut into two sides of a piece of scrap wood.

The answer to your question is dependent upon which miter gauge I am using.

If using the Incra V120, I trust the present indicators on the miter gauge. These protractors are very accurate because of the way they were manufactured (laser cut).

If I am using the Shopsmith Miter Gauge, I am confident that I can make it (them, I have two) just as accurate by employing the Wixey. I clamp the bar in a bench vise, with the minor fence up. I then zero the Wixey while attached to the miter bar (which is vertical) and zero it. Then I move the Wixey to the face of the miter gauge and set it for 90 degrees (as read on the Wixey).

This whole procedure can be done just as accurately using just the MiterSet.

Thanks, Dusty! I have an Incra 1000se that is quite accurate. It even has a vernier scale that allows adjustment to 1/10 degree, but I did find that it needed some tweaking when I bought it, in both making it square to the miter bar and also making it perpendicular to the surface of the saw table.

I have a TS-Aligner Jr that I use to set-up the saw blade to the the miter slot, as well as the fence alignment. And, I have a small machinist's triangle that I use for squaring the miter gauge to the blade. Then I make test cuts to ensure that the blade is perpendicular to the table and to the miter gauge.

I've not tried the Wixey. Perhaps I'll pick one up one of these days.

Art

I shimmed the face of my V120 to make it square to the table but I am not certain that this really makes any difference except that without the shimming I could not declare it perfectly tuned.

With an Incra 1000 and TS_Aligner available, I would assume that you have already fine tuned your table saw. It would not make sense to do otherwise; that would be sorta like measuring with a micrometer and cutting with an axe.

I'm curious. What degree of accuracy do you enjoy with the TS-Aligner?

PS I just down loaded the user's manual for the TS-Aligner Jr. Wow. What a tool and what a user's manual! I plan to read it tonight. It appears to be loaded with some good to have information.