Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:Titebond (I think its Titebond) makes two or three varieties of ca adhesive. The thinner one is designed to migrate into the cracks. Would that work. Maybe this is what Ed was talking about, too. It may be epoxy I am thinking about and now a ca ...or whatever.

Titebond is correct. The thin version fills cracks as small as .002". Can't tell from the photos is they are that wide. Worth a look into though.
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=ProductCategoryTB.asp?prodcat=1

dusty wrote:Titebond (I think its Titebond) makes two or three varieties of ca adhesive. The thinner one is designed to migrate into the cracks. Would that work. Maybe this is what Ed was talking about, too. It may be epoxy I am thinking about and now a ca ...or whatever.

Your correct with the name. The 'thin' version fills cracks as small as .002". Can't tell in the photo how wide they might be. To see the product go here then type in the word "Instant' in the search field. I couldn't find it on their site any other way.

mickyd wrote:Your correct with the name. The 'thin' version fills cracks as small as .002". Can't tell in the photo how wide they might be. To see the product go here then type in the word "Instant' in the search field. I couldn't find it on their site any other way.

IMHO the 'Thinner' one is designed to 'work'. It is like the 'original' Eastman 910. It is so fast, any on yer pinkies will attach them to whatever they touch.

I have been very frustrated with these newer 'gel' types.

What makes it a strong adhesive is the thiness of the 'glue' in the 'joint'. Gels are NOT thin!!! Rant over!

the suggestions to try running the DC without the impeller before I start putting stuff back is a good one but the weather here is not cooperating. I want to try it outside so that I don't spread the old dust all over the place. the motor shaft turns somewhat stiffly and does not coast if I try to spin it. I do not have a basis to know if that is normal for this type of motor or not.

I forgot the good camera when I went to the shop today so I did not get any better pictures.

in terms of gluing the cracks shut, my experience with gluing nylon has been bad. Eastman 910 would sometimes work for static use if I got the surfaces either really smooth or just ever so slightly textured. I pretty much swore that I would never again try to glue either nylon or teflon. if I get desperate enough, I'll try a bonding experiment on the backside of the disk before trying to mend the hub.

Ivan

iclark wrote:the suggestions to try running the DC without the impeller before I start putting stuff back is a good one but the weather here is not cooperating. I want to try it outside so that I don't spread the old dust all over the place. the motor shaft turns somewhat stiffly and does not coast if I try to spin it. I do not have a basis to know if that is normal for this type of motor or not.

I forgot the good camera when I went to the shop today so I did not get any better pictures.

in terms of gluing the cracks shut, my experience with gluing nylon has been bad. Eastman 910 would sometimes work for static use if I got the surfaces either really smooth or just ever so slightly textured. I pretty much swore that I would never again try to glue either nylon or teflon. if I get desperate enough, I'll try a bonding experiment on the backside of the disk before trying to mend the hub.

Ivan

Ivan
I once again agree. Glueing nylon has never worked for me. That is why I suggestted epoxy (fiber glass resin if you will). Even then I don't know how it would hold and as I said before to get the whole thing balanced would probably be a major project in itself.

I don't have total recall but I believe my motor shaft with the impeller on would spin fairly well. The guy you bought it from didn't do something shifty like sticking in a nylon bushing to cover a bad bearing or brass bushing long enough to sell the thing did he? Hope I'm wrong.