Sled??
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osx-addict
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Hi,
It is thicker so the the blade exposure is less. I try not to cut much farther then what is required to cut the work piece and the dual thickness seems to be good working distance for the way I work.
And as was mentioned you could remove the outer most board and replace it as it wears out. I have thought of adding a 1/4" hardboard face to make that even easier.
You could also add a piece of t-track along the top and add a stop down from that... lot of options.
Ed
It is thicker so the the blade exposure is less. I try not to cut much farther then what is required to cut the work piece and the dual thickness seems to be good working distance for the way I work.
And as was mentioned you could remove the outer most board and replace it as it wears out. I have thought of adding a 1/4" hardboard face to make that even easier.
You could also add a piece of t-track along the top and add a stop down from that... lot of options.
Ed
dickg1 wrote:Ed,
I see advantages and am going to make one. But, why the extra thick mitre extension?
Dick
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Ed,reible wrote:Hi,
It is thicker so the the blade exposure is less. I try not to cut much farther then what is required to cut the work piece and the dual thickness seems to be good working distance for the way I work.
And as was mentioned you could remove the outer most board and replace it as it wears out. I have thought of adding a 1/4" hardboard face to make that even easier.
You could also add a piece of t-track along the top and add a stop down from that... lot of options.
Ed
Thanks for the quick reply and your additional thoughts. Makes good sense.
Dick
A Veteran-whether Active Duty, Retired, National Guard or Reserve-Is Someone Who, at One Point in Their Life, Signed a Blank Check Made Payable To "The United States of America", For An Amount of 'Up To and Including My Life'
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flashbacpt
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- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:41 pm
- Location: Concord, Ca.
Sled
Ed,
I must commend you for this sled! The idea is simple, makes me want to hit my head for not thinking of it!!!
As mentioned earlier, it would be most usefull for the Segmented Turners in our group. It provides a zero clearance cut, and would work very nicely with the Miter Set angle setting device for a dedicated segmented sled (ex...15 degrees)
For Segmented Turners, I would add two things to the design. The addition of adhesive sandpaper for preventing slippage of the wood during the cut, and a measuring scale, possibly the new Red Tape product from Rocklers, that is often needed when cutting segments.
Again, Great idea! Thanks for sharing!:)
John
FlashbacPT
I must commend you for this sled! The idea is simple, makes me want to hit my head for not thinking of it!!!
As mentioned earlier, it would be most usefull for the Segmented Turners in our group. It provides a zero clearance cut, and would work very nicely with the Miter Set angle setting device for a dedicated segmented sled (ex...15 degrees)
For Segmented Turners, I would add two things to the design. The addition of adhesive sandpaper for preventing slippage of the wood during the cut, and a measuring scale, possibly the new Red Tape product from Rocklers, that is often needed when cutting segments.
Again, Great idea! Thanks for sharing!:)
John
FlashbacPT
Hi,
A while back I spotted this idea and made a quick sketch on some paper that I filed if making a stack of papers counts as a filing system. I forgot where I spotted it or even when but when the cutting small parts subject came up again I decided to make one.... How ever my sketch is lost but never mind that as this is really really simple.
When I use this sled I make the cut and then pull back and remove the waste or good part with the use of a pencil with eraser tip. I general just cut far enough to cut the stock through but this is more of a mental exercise then actually have a physical stop. When I saw this idea and how simple it was it was one of those why didn't I think of that times.
Getting started I collected these parts:
[ATTACH]6811[/ATTACH]
The disk part is what I chose to use, different heights, materials, shapes are really up to you. You might want to think of the thickness in terms of finding a common size fastener to ensure you can tighten it and not damage the miter slot.
I think you can figure out how to put it together but I'll post a few pictures of the set up. In these photos I have the miter gauge mounted backwards so I can show you what is happening. This is NOT how I use it.
First I wanted to show the point where the blade has finished it cut. You can use the stock you are working with to visually determine this point. Just remember that the saw should be unplugged at this point.
[ATTACH]6812[/ATTACH]
You might want to give it an extra 1/16" or so but the stop is then slid into position and tightened. Pretty simple so far hey?
[ATTACH]6813[/ATTACH]
In use the sled will now go from the starting point to the stop. Well there you go.
[ATTACH]6814[/ATTACH]
I almost wanted to make this a new thread as I can see several more uses of the basic idea presented here. I'll have to see if I get around to do any more of them.
Ed
A while back I spotted this idea and made a quick sketch on some paper that I filed if making a stack of papers counts as a filing system. I forgot where I spotted it or even when but when the cutting small parts subject came up again I decided to make one.... How ever my sketch is lost but never mind that as this is really really simple.
When I use this sled I make the cut and then pull back and remove the waste or good part with the use of a pencil with eraser tip. I general just cut far enough to cut the stock through but this is more of a mental exercise then actually have a physical stop. When I saw this idea and how simple it was it was one of those why didn't I think of that times.
Getting started I collected these parts:
[ATTACH]6811[/ATTACH]
The disk part is what I chose to use, different heights, materials, shapes are really up to you. You might want to think of the thickness in terms of finding a common size fastener to ensure you can tighten it and not damage the miter slot.
I think you can figure out how to put it together but I'll post a few pictures of the set up. In these photos I have the miter gauge mounted backwards so I can show you what is happening. This is NOT how I use it.
First I wanted to show the point where the blade has finished it cut. You can use the stock you are working with to visually determine this point. Just remember that the saw should be unplugged at this point.
[ATTACH]6812[/ATTACH]
You might want to give it an extra 1/16" or so but the stop is then slid into position and tightened. Pretty simple so far hey?
[ATTACH]6813[/ATTACH]
In use the sled will now go from the starting point to the stop. Well there you go.
[ATTACH]6814[/ATTACH]
I almost wanted to make this a new thread as I can see several more uses of the basic idea presented here. I'll have to see if I get around to do any more of them.
Ed
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{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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osx-addict
- Gold Member
- Posts: 386
- Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2008 1:56 pm
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
It appears that the miter gauge is in the correct position? Am I missing something? Is there a reason for the circle wood or could it be square?reible wrote:Hi,
In these photos I have the miter gauge mounted backwards so I can show you what is happening. This is NOT how I use it.
Ed
Thanks,
Mike
Mark V 520, Ryobi 12" mitersaw, Delta 10" tablesaw, DC 3300.
Mike
Mike
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wlhayesmfs
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Broken Arrow OK
Erase to remove pieces, Been watching a lot of Marks old show.
On the round top. It is more accurate that one that is square. on a round one set it once and it is right. on a square stop you have to make sure it is square or the stop could be wrong.
Look like a great idea
Thanks
On the round top. It is more accurate that one that is square. on a round one set it once and it is right. on a square stop you have to make sure it is square or the stop could be wrong.
Look like a great idea
Thanks
Bill 
Broken Arrow OK
MKV, 510, MKVll, 50th Anniversary 520 with Jointech saw train, Bandsaw, scroll saw, joiner, 6" Sander,Stand Alone Pin Router and Router Table, Strip Sander, Jigsaw & (4) ER's plus Jigsaw for ER. DC SS RAS
Broken Arrow OK
MKV, 510, MKVll, 50th Anniversary 520 with Jointech saw train, Bandsaw, scroll saw, joiner, 6" Sander,Stand Alone Pin Router and Router Table, Strip Sander, Jigsaw & (4) ER's plus Jigsaw for ER. DC SS RAS
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swampgator
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- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 9:32 pm
- Location: Pensacola, FL
This is the newbie again. This is the sled that I was copying when I ran into questionable territory cutting the runners to fit the mitre slots. Of course, I am trying to modify mine to work on the table saw.
http://www.woodmagazine.com/photos/proj ... 1306200001
Just thought that I would share. I also like the other one discussed here for different purposes. Thanks for the idea. Now, I have two to make.
the old swampgator in Pensacola, FL:D
http://www.woodmagazine.com/photos/proj ... 1306200001
Just thought that I would share. I also like the other one discussed here for different purposes. Thanks for the idea. Now, I have two to make.
the old swampgator in Pensacola, FL:D
