Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:Have you ever 'smelled' liquid wrench? It contains 'petroleum distillate'. Guess what kind!:D

I be trying acetone/k1 next time!

The acetone/k1 or acetone/ATF works very well. However you need keep anything with acetone in it in a sealed container as it evaporate quickly (overnight) when setting in an open container.

I am still a firm believer in Kroil for the ease in using it. I use the straw it comes with to better direct the stream. Kroil really works well for unsticking the floating or control sheave and removing the Shopsmith legs and retractable casters bolts. I use it to flush any crud from the control sheave bearing before reoiling it.

I made a batch of what is essentially "Eds Red" some time ago. That's the acetone/ATF mix. It works as a penetrating oil, but I've never found it to be particularly impressive. Kroil, PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench with Teflon all worked better.

Interesting side note on the acetone/ATF mixes. It separates. As in nearly instantly. You've got to be shaking the heck out of it to get it to stay mixed. If I wasn't using a clear bottle I wouldn't have noticed this because the red die from the ATF goes right into the acetone. But the two fluids do not stay mixed.

I wonder what a mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and Actone would do?
If you ever mess with Marvel Oil you will find that one drop placed on a piece of metal in the middle of your workbench when left untouched for long enough will migrate to every tool in your shop.

Seriously this oil has a surface tension of zero. I once oiled my pool timer with it and six months later when I changed the pump motor I found traces of oil had traveled 6 feet of electrical conduit and made it way into the electrical junction on the motor. It was an up and down hill climb.

Since then I have used Marvel Oil as a carrier for other oils. I have soaked "sealed" bearings in Marvel oil over night then with a mixture of Marvel and 50W oil and quieted noisy bearings. One is still functioning as main bearing on my mower idler assembly.

Never tried it to remove bolts though. I'm still a big fan of dynamite.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I wonder what a mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and Actone would do?
If you ever mess with Marvel Oil you will find that one drop placed on a piece of metal in the middle of your workbench when left untouched for long enough will migrate to every tool in your shop.

Seriously this oil has a surface tension of zero. I once oiled my pool timer with it and six months later when I changed the pump motor I found traces of oil had traveled 6 feet of electrical conduit and made it way into the electrical junction on the motor. It was an up and down hill climb.

Since then I have used Marvel Oil as a carrier for other oils. I have soaked "sealed" bearings in Marvel oil over night then with a mixture of Marvel and 50W oil and quieted noisy bearings. One is still functioning as main bearing on my mower idler assembly.

Never tried it to remove bolts though. I'm still a big fan of dynamite.

Ed, you are so right about the Marvel oil. Thanks. I started using Marvel Mystery Oil ( http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ ) when I was working as a used car mechanic in the 50s. It can do wonders for a short time to engine, manual and auto transmissions and rear end noises and problems.

I started using it whenever I was done using an air powered tool with a few drops into the air inlet in the 60s. I still have the same air tools and the same can of Marvel Mystery Oil today and never had an air tool seize up or stop working when using this oil before storing it. I keep the oil with my air powered tools but noticed they have an oil just for air tools now. I never thought to used it as a pentrating oil or for other purposes.

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judaspre1982 wrote:Kroil has been my savior on many occasions. It has even worked on stainless steel bolts that were seized in aluminum gear cases on outboard motors subjected to years of salt water corrosion. A friend of mine works for Boeing and says Kroil is what they use exclusively in their machine shop. Kroil and heat are my two favorite things to use on seized fasteners.

That's become my favorite combination. Heat it up with a propane torch, squirt a little Kroil on it while it's still hot, and whatever it is will come right out.

If you Google "Kroil," and then go to their web site, you'll see that they have a special "Google" offer of two 13 ounce aerosol cans of Kroil for $12.00 that includes shipping.

Art

pennview wrote:If you Google "Kroil," and then go to their web site, you'll see that they have a special "Google" offer of two 13 ounce aerosol cans of Kroil for $12.00 that includes shipping.

Art

That's a pretty good deal! I think I paid around $15 for a single can of "Aero Kroil" locally this past summer.

judaspre1982 wrote:Kroil has been my savior on many occasions. It has even worked on stainless steel bolts that were seized in aluminum gear cases on outboard motors subjected to years of salt water corrosion. A friend of mine works for Boeing and says Kroil is what they use exclusively in their machine shop. Kroil and heat are my two favorite things to use on seized fasteners.

I sent an email to Kroil advising them that the product has yet to work for me and asked them if they wanted the can sent back to them for evaluation to see if it was possibly a defective batch. I also attached photos of the attempts. Told them I wasn't interested in a refund so much as to find out why it hadn't worked for me at all. Even asked them if California regulation required a 'sub-par' version. I'll keep you posted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bucksaw
From "Ask the Builder" by Tim Carter

Blog discussing the test

I believe the test actually used Power Steering Fluid, not ATF.

In post #18 of the blog referenced above, the author says he intended to use a mix of ATF and acetone, but he actually used (by accident) power steering fluid with acetone.

In another thread in those posts, someone else said he found something else that was better than Kroil: KB88 made by LPS. Anyone ever heard of that?