Shopsmith Forums

Given your propensity for detail, these lanterns will certainly become heirlooms and with fine results; however, I believe you will be much more satisfied with your results if you pay the price for a reasonable set of dado blades.

I just looked through the plans that you posted and have become aware of the number of dadoes to be cut. I would not attempt that many multiple passes across a standard saw blade for anything that I might care about.

This approach is okay for picnic tables and saw horses, etc. Fine woodworking - naught.

OKAY, you got my opinion and I'm sticking to it.

mickyd wrote:Ouch!!!! This one is going to require upper managment approval (>$100) It also doesn't indicate that stock is available. I'll have to call. Maybe I should have taken up needle point. This one I can just squeak by.

FYI - Just got off the phone with ShopSmith. The AMANA dado on their website is backordered so I can have a guilt free look at alternative sources. They are stocked with plenty of dado table inserts for the 500 so I ordered one up.

mickyd wrote:FYI - Just got off the phone with ShopSmith. The AMANA dado on their website is backordered so I can have a guilt free look at alternative sources. They are stocked with plenty of dado table inserts for the 500 so I ordered one up.

You probably need to have the dado insert but I would give serious consideration to a home made ZCI for use on this project.

dusty wrote:You probably need to have the dado insert but I would give serious consideration to a home made ZCI for use on this project.

Zero Clearance Insert - Where would one rookie get info on how to produce one of these items? Also, what is the importance of these?

Is a $22 Harbor Freight dado out of the question??:o

The advantage of a ZCI is that it supports the wood being cut by the blade right up to the blade (zero clearance). This support tends to reduce (not eliminate) the tear out that occurs when the blade exits on the bottom side of the stock being cut.

All that need be done to create one is to cut a piece of material the size and thickness of a table insert. Drill it to match the insert. Cut counter sinks to match the screw heads used to secure the insert to the table. Raise the table above the saw blade (dado blade) to be used. Install the insert in the table top. Turn on the table saw and slowly lower the table onto the blade. The blade will cut its way through the insert. Do this very slowly. Weart eye protection. When the blade breaks through sawdust and chips tend to fly for a moment.

I use quarter inch hard board to make ZCIs.

It is important that the ZCI be perfectly level with the table top. It may be necessary to use shims to accomplish this.

mickyd wrote:Ouch!!!! This one is going to require upper managment approval (>$100) It also doesn't indicate that stock is available. I'll have to call. Maybe I should have taken up needle point. This one I can just squeak by.

You can purchase a Freud 8" dado set for less than $100 at sears. I do not know if they also sell the smaller one(less $$$). Other places sell them also($$ varies).

BTW if you need different width 'grooves', a different ZCI would be needed for each 'size'.

Mickyd, Just FYI, click on "Special Table Inserts" in the first link. Also be very careful when you lower the table with a blank insert on it. Read through the thread on table inserts and/or check out other woodworking sites for info on making table inserts. Not too difficult but a dado or molder ZCI is a little more scary to make than a sawblade insert. I never can find 1/4" hardboard any more, but other materials will work. Good luck, John McCrossen


http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/tblsaw ... /index.htm

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... le+inserts

Mike

I have not had time to read or keep up with this thread. What type wood do you plan to use on this project?

Mike
I had a look at your plans. These are small pieces. The table saw is a big machine. I have never used dadoes much so I may be biased but since the plans later on require you to have a router anyway why not use your router for the dadoes. I do all my dadoes with either a router or the multiple cut method and have made a few fairly decent pieces. I would say that from a safety and accuracy standpoint on small pieces like this a router is a much better idea. Use it upside down in a router table or just up through a piece of plywood. As I said I don't use dadoes much, by choice, and may be biased.

Paul M