Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:We need to 'see' yours. It should indeed prevent it falling back to horizontal. The side slop is normal also. Tightening the lock knob should take up that slack.

The off center depression should force the way tubes to just past vertical.

Make sure the lock screw has a tapered end. The part may be wrong if the threads are about to bottom out.

Thanks, JPG, it was late and I should have taken pictures but did not. Will take some pics today, before I clean the outside of the machine and the tubes today so that I can get ready to make a mess all over.

Well I was not happy with the pics I tool regrading the set screw lot locking all the way for the SS when in drill press position, so I shot a 1 minute video as it is easier to see what I am talking about. I uploaded it to my YouTube channel and it can be seen by clicking on the link. If anyone can take a minute and check out what I am talking about and can figure out what I might be doing wrong I would appreciate it. Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ii4ODoxAkxQ

tgamel wrote:Well I was not happy with the pics I tool regrading the set screw lot locking all the way for the SS when in drill press position, so I shot a 1 minute video as it is easier to see what I am talking about. I uploaded it to my YouTube channel and it can be seen by clicking on the link. If anyone can take a minute and check out what I am talking about and can figure out what I might be doing wrong I would appreciate it. Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ii4ODoxAkxQ

I don't think the gaps are abnormal. If they are, so are the gaps on my MarkV.

The likelihood of the Mark V falling out of vertical without being helped is, in my opinion, very, very slight. When you go into the drill press mode, you actually go past vertical a couple degrees. Since you are then on the downhill side of the arc, to go back past vertical required some force. It won't fall on its own.

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Notice that the gaps shown in these images are all the function of the gap back at the pivot point. There is very little movement that effects the size of the gaps we are discussing. This pieces are milled/cast to function together. The gap is not the result of an assembly procedure or error.

It's just a suggestion but I think I would call Customer Service and ask them to look at your video. They may be able to better diagnose the problem than are we.

I just doesn't appear that there should be a problem here since, as Dusty said, "...pieces are milled/cast to function together." I'm thinking perhaps the "bolt" isn't the correct length and was possibly replaced by the prior owner with the wrong length. Mine is 2 3/16" from flat end to tip.

Perhaps someone will come up with a simple explanation and fix for your problem but I sure don't have one.

Leonard may have a point that I completely over looked. Look at my first image and note how much of the threads are unused. In your viseo, it appears that the bolt is screwed almost all the way in; bolt is too short.

This might be an optical allusion. Leonard gave us the over all length of 2 3/16" which is the same as mine.

fixit wrote:It's just a suggestion but I think I would call Customer Service and ask them to look at your video. They may be able to better diagnose the problem than are we.

I just doesn't appear that there should be a problem here since, as Dusty said, "...pieces are milled/cast to function together." I'm thinking perhaps the "bolt" isn't the correct length and was possibly replaced by the prior owner with the wrong length. Mine is 2 3/16" from flat end to tip.

Perhaps someone will come up with a simple explanation and fix for your problem but I sure don't have one.

Will check the length on the bolt Leonard, that was a great suggestion, never even thought to measure it and ask how long the set screw should be. Will do that tonight when I go back to polish the bench and way tubes.

If the set screw is all the way tight into the depression, it should prevent laying back down.

Something is not clear here.

Is it perhaps 'just' missing the depression?

Can you check both of the castings for cracks that may be opening or expanding when pressure is applied from the screw?
Bill V

Ok, shot some more pics, they are not great but good enough to share the information. The set screw seems to be the same length as everyone else's (about 2 3/16" long). The divot or depression is there, I see no cracks or any other defects that should cause the way tubes or their mount to move. I am stumped, but as I am new to the SS I could be doing something wrong, but the process seems pretty 'idiot' proof (maybe not ).

The only thing I noticed is that when I turn the set screw, the carriage move just a slight bit away from the screw leaving about 1 1/8" gap on the side with the set screw. I could place a wood wedge on the other side when placing the SS in drill press mode, but I know it was designed to not have to do this.....Still kinda stumped. However, I will say one thing, after cleaning lubricating and aligning the Mark V, I really learned where all the locks were and what they did. This thing is built like a tank, and I can really understand why they last so long. I know once I figure this little hiccup out, this baby is gonna last a long time and give me a lot of enjoyment.

Hi,

Took a few moments out of my busy day of building a new computer to shoot a couple pictures of what I'm seeing.

First my bolt is 2-1/2" long. It fits fine and you would have to break something to get it out of drill press position if it were engaged.

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I have all old style casting with the set screw on the bottom side as shown here.

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I have seen, which I believe is newer casting with the set screw located at the top in about this position.

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I'm thinking shopsmith may have changed sizes (length & head size) of the knob at some point (or more), maybe when they did some other changes like changing the set screw location??

My guess is the knob is not the right one for your machine, you need one like I have (sorry I'm keeping mine but you might get lucky with another member???).

Ed