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Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:10 pm
by heathicus
hohenfelsjoe wrote:OK, I have everything taken apart on the head except the nameplate and part of the quill. Hence my question, Everything came apart OK except the top part of the quill as shown in the picture.
I dont want to break anything, which way should I tap it to get it out? To the inside of the housing? Or get a piece of pipe and tap it out? Does it matter?
Thanks!
I used a wooden dowel to tap mine out. A large one like is used as a closet rod. Tap it toward the outside of the housing.
You might have a set screw on the back side. Be sure to loosen that before tapping it out.
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:13 pm
by hohenfelsjoe
JPG40504 wrote:It matters!!!!!! There is a ridge in the casting that prevents the inner bearing from moving further into the casting. It needs to be nudged out from the inside. If you are going to replace the bearings, you need not be concerned with damage to the current bearings. Keep things straight. Do not forget to remove the set screw on the back side near the 'top' that holds the spacer between the two bearings.
The nameplate may not be 'removable'. On my 10E, the 'screw pins'(or whatever the bolt expert thinks they should be called:D) are in blind holes and cannot be pushed out from inside. If they are loose enough and you can get under the head, you may be able to back them out.
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!
I have removed all the screws and started to spray it with penetrating oil. I'll probally start tapping on it from the inside tomorrow, I need to find a piece of pipe....
I see I am going to have to play with the nameplate a bit
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:13 pm
by hohenfelsjoe
heathicus wrote:I used a wooden dowel to tap mine out. A large one like is used as a closet rod. Tap it toward the outside of the housing.
You might have a set screw on the back side. Be sure to loosen that before tapping it out.
Thanks! wooden Dowel! Perfect.....
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:17 pm
by hohenfelsjoe
retiredsoldier919 wrote:Joe, just to minimize confusion, let's call the part you're talking about as the drive shaft. To remove it first loosen the set screw. Then insert a wooden dowel or simular object through the quill hole. Tap it out through the end where the pulley was located. I used an old wooden hammer handle.
BTW: Is your name connected somehow with Hohenfels Germany? I've been there too many times. Don't miss Hohenfels or Grafenwoehr.
Thanks. Yes it is spent my last Army tour there as Opfor. Love Germany, dont miss that place either
Success!
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:39 pm
by hohenfelsjoe
Thanks Again JPG40504, retiredsoldier919, and heathicus. Worked like a champ:
Now on to the Nameplate....
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 11:48 pm
by JPG
hohenfelsjoe wrote:Thanks Again JPG40504, retiredsoldier919, and heathicus. Worked like a champ:
Now on to the Nameplate....
Looks like new bearings are a good idea!
25mm x 52mm x 15mm (id x od x width) with both sides shielded. You will go nuts trying to match different manufacturers part numbers. Size and shields and tolerances are what counts! Good luck finding consensus regarding tolerances! IMHO C3 is good enough here!
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:19 am
by hohenfelsjoe
JPG40504 wrote:Looks like new bearings are a good idea!
25mm x 52mm x 15mm (id x od x width) with both sides shielded. You will go nuts trying to match different manufacturers part numbers. Size and shields and tolerances are what counts! Good luck finding consensus regarding tolerances! IMHO C3 is good enough here!
Any suggestions on what bearings to use? Sorry, not quite sure what C3 is
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 4:31 pm
by JPG
hohenfelsjoe wrote:Any suggestions on what bearings to use? Sorry, not quite sure what C3 is
C3 is what you are likely to get unless you ask for something better.
It is a 'clearance' standard and is general purpose relatively loose fit. The quill bearings were originally C1 which is extremely tight(and difficult to find).
Try vxb as they seem to be reasonable for small lots and are very quick.
If you need motor bearings, pm me!
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 5:59 pm
by retiredsoldier919
Joe, I bought these for my drive shaft. They are original spec, and now my Shopsmith is running smooth. Best price I could find online. $9.99
http://cgi.ebay.com/Fafnir-Ball-Bearing ... 45ef1da1fd
Posted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 6:12 pm
by retiredsoldier919