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Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 6:43 pm
by dusty
I'm going to back out of this conversation as gracefully as possible and just read for a while. It is obvious that I have little or no knowledge of this vintage motor.
I'll be here watching though and I wish you the best in your refurb effort.
Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 8:27 pm
by PG-Zac
JPG40504 wrote:The two 'red' wires at the top are NOT the wires going to the capacitor. They go to the start switch.
Oops - my bad. you are absolutely right.
JPG40504 wrote:Will a photo copy do we kissing???:D
Send it & I'll do the deed.
JPG40504 wrote:P.S. You might want to check the diameter of the main shaft pulley. ... ... If you have 50Hz, you might want to replace the pulley. That would allow it to operate in the 'normal' 700 - 5200 rpm range.
I'm not sure which pulley you are referring to, and I'm also not sure if we have 50 or 60 Hz - I'll need to check that. Once I have that info, where would I find info on the correct pulley size?
Thanks.
.
Posted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 8:31 pm
by PG-Zac
dusty wrote:I'm going to back out of this conversation as gracefully as possible and just read for a while. It is obvious that I have little or no knowledge of this vintage motor.
Don't sweat it Dusty -
You perspective is always welcomed.
Good News & Bad News
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:53 pm
by PG-Zac
Firstly the good news:
Today I managed to finish my rewiring into this motor and put a short burst of power onto the motor
IT WORKED
Then the bad news:
I powered it again and it worked for about 6 seconds then just stopped & billowed smoke into my face.
Then more bad news:
While trying to remove the fan sheave I smashed my left hand middle finger. It is not easy typing without that finger.
can anyone answer the question below to help prevent me mashing another finger
PLEASE 
PG-Zac wrote:While I'm breaking down the motor, I might as well take the opportunity to service the sheaves,
I successfully removed the first parts (no ping-gone)
But I can't get the fan sheave off the shaft even though I have loosened a set screw. Is there a trick I don't yet know, or is it the normal case of penetrating oil and careful force?
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:13 pm
by beeg
PG-Zac wrote:can anyone answer the question below to help prevent me mashing another finger PLEASE
Work SAFELY, or do knot do ANYTHING where ya might get hurt.
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:13 pm
by wannabewoodworker
Well the motor is toast anyway as evidenced by the smoke so she is a dead soldier at this point. So get it off anyway you like now which includes destructive disassembly which may allow you to blow off some steam while you are at it. You will need a new motor anyway and it will probably come with sheaves depending on where you get it. I vote for the 10 lb. sledge hammer and take it out viciously on that finger basher...........
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:22 pm
by billmayo
PG-Zac wrote:But I can't get the fan sheave off the shaft even though I have loosened a set screw. Is there a trick I don't yet know, or is it the normal case of penetrating oil and careful force?
.
I still use old farm boy technique to remove the fan sheave. I have removed dozens of them this way.
Now with the motor mounting holes up, I use a 5/32" hex wrench to remove the fan sheave set screw. I use a good pentrating oil (KROIL for me) in the set screw hole and let set for a while. I use a clamp at the end of the motor shaft to hold the key while loosening the fan sheave. I have a few large flat blade screwdrivers that I use. I put the flat blade between the fan sheave hub (extended part) and motor housing on each side of the motor shaft and tap each alternating with a large hammer. Once the fan sheave starts to move and the screwdriver quits moving the fan sheave, I repeat this action with two larger screwdrivers on top of the original ones that I used until the fan sheave can be moved by hand. I remove the clamp holding the key and remove the fan sheave and key. Do not use a puller or any other tool that that does not use the sheave hub and motor housing.
Shopsmith has made a modification to help prevent the fan sheave from impacted the motor housing(rubbing) in the later motors. They went to a thicker sheave spacer that I use even if the original thin spacer cut a groove in the back of the hub. I use LocTite on the set screw when installing the set screw as I find quite a few of them loose.
If all else fails, I now have a motor rework and test station available. Contact me for more information.
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:18 am
by wannabewoodworker
Bill,
My Greenie has that little thin spacer on my 3/4 hp. motor do you advise replacing that? If so where do I get one? I assume that Bill's Shopsmith Part Depot has these in stock??? If so guess what????
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 1:31 am
by billmayo
wannabewoodworker wrote:Bill,
My Greenie has that little thin spacer on my 3/4 hp. motor do you advise replacing that? If so where do I get one? I assume that Bill's Shopsmith Part Depot has these in stock??? If so guess what????
As long as the Fan Sheave does not rub the motor housing, the thin spacer is OK. Check if it is cutting into the back of the fan sheave. I only replace the thin spacer if it has imbeded in the back of the fan sheave, You can only get the thicker one from Shopsmith now. I only have enough thicker spacers for motors waiting to be rebuilt, plenty of the thin ones, but will order some or will make some.
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:01 am
by wannabewoodworker
Okee Dokee!