Electrolysis amperage question

------------------------ · Fri Apr 09, 2010 3:27 pm

I used electrolysis on the ER that I re-built. I found the results to be mediocre at best. It was a long drawn out process. After each part soaking for 24 hours, they all still needed to be wire wheeled. After I was completly done my, hands were a bloody, scabby mess from contacting the wheel. As I look at the 2 ERs in my garage that could use to be restored, I am thinking there has to be a better way. I am thinking sandblasting would be a good alternative. I found a portable blaster that only needs 9 cfm and I found a 10.5 cfm compressor for only $400.00. I think this is the option that I am going to go for. My thinking is every shop should have a good compressor anyway, and the portability will be a benefit as I could use it for automotive and outdoor applications.
Mark

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:05 pm

mark-b wrote:I used electrolysis on the ER that I re-built. I found the results to be mediocre at best. It was a long drawn out process. After each part soaking for 24 hours, they all still needed to be wire wheeled. After I was completly done my, hands were a bloody, scabby mess from contacting the wheel. As I look at the 2 ERs in my garage that could use to be restored, I am thinking there has to be a better way. I am thinking sandblasting would be a good alternative. I found a portable blaster that only needs 9 cfm and I found a 10.5 cfm compressor for only $400.00. I think this is the option that I am going to go for. My thinking is every shop should have a good compressor anyway, and the portability will be a benefit as I could use it for automotive and outdoor applications.
Mark

Mark - Something in your process is astray, either procedure or equipment. The chemistry behind the electrolysis process is rock solid. I've used it a ton and never had any issues that I couldn't relate back to procedural problems. You could find the gremlin I am sure.

I can see how'd you'd get frustrated though if it just isn't working for you. (like me and Kroil). To this day, I don't know if I got a bad can or what. Reminds me, I have to bug the company again. They were supposed to contact me. Forgot all about it.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 5:12 pm

mickyd wrote:I DID heat the broth with my first older charger. This one had only a 6 and 12 V setting, nothing else. On 12V setting, the water would be tepid after overnight usage. On 6 V setting, water remained cool yet appeared to de-rust just as fast. I associated the cooler water with less current.

With my second newer charger, I would have it set at the 12V/10A setting and current would be about 8A initially dropping down to around 2-4A after a couple hours and stay there throughout the 12-24hr cycle.

I read somewhere that you CAN'T speed up electrolysis and that excess energy just goes into heating the electrolyte. Assuming that to be true, I figured I put my money into materials and supplies vs. to my electric company for heating liquid.

I'm open for views / counterviews since I don't know for sure. I just know what's worked for me and what I've observed in my trials.

I don't suppose you can recall where?

------------------------ · Fri Apr 09, 2010 6:20 pm

mickyd wrote:Mark - Something in your process is astray, either procedure or equipment

You forgot operator error! I have been known to be the weak link:eek:

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:18 pm

Does the electrolysis process help with freeing rusted bolts?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 8:23 pm

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Does the electrolysis process help with freeing rusted bolts?

Not sure, but I think a long soak in evaporust will!

After thinking about this, I do believe electrolysis has been shown to do that. I recall a person describing rust removal on a cultivator blade, and he was able to remove it(nut/bolt) from its arm after rust removal. I believe he used electrolysis. I have not been able to 'find' it.

horologist · Post by **horologist** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:34 pm

I have loosened rusted screws with Evapo Rust. I think electrolysis is pretty much line of sight and therefore may not be too good for loosening a rusted fastener. However I haven't tried this method yet, no doubt Mike will know.

Troy

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:59 pm

JPG40504 wrote:I don't suppose you can recall where?

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Does the electrolysis process help with freeing rusted bolts?

This link talks about both the heating of the water at higher amperage and the effectiveness at freeing up rusted bolts.

http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html

There is a better website that talk more about the heating of the bath. It's a site maintained by a museum involved in conservation of iron artifacts. I'll locate it and post it later. I would have bookmarked it but....I think on my work computer.

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Sat Apr 10, 2010 8:18 am

Thanks Mike. Those were some nasty looking plows! I'm off to buy a large Rubbermaid trash can to build a vat! I have some planes and hand saws to try it out on.

mickyd · Post by **mickyd** » Sat Apr 10, 2010 9:48 am

mark-b wrote:You forgot operator error! I have been known to be the weak link:eek:

This was an interesting comment I came across while trying to find the site that discussed the heating of the electrolyte.

Following excerpt is from http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html
"A problem I have found with some battery chargers (if you do not have a battery included in the circuit), is that the rectifiers that filter the AC to DC are poor. This means that some of the material that has been pulled off the item you are cleaning, gets reattached to the part because a small fraction of the current flow is reversed. While not a huge problem, the part will not be as clean as it could be. If connected to a battery, the "unclean" output from the battery charger is rectified."

Maybe that was your issue Mark where you weren't impressed with the electrolysis process.