Since it is a 86 vintage, it should have a 'lubrication' hole in the snout. That is where any penetrating fluids need be applied and allowed to soak in repetitively. Since the pulley is all the way onto the shaft. the penetrant needs to go BOTH directions. My 'favorite' is plain old ordinary K1 kerosene. Not as exotic, nor smell as 'good', but given adequate time usually gets er done.
If using wedges, be cautious so as to NOT warp the sheave. Work from varying positions around the sheave. Prying may work, but the warpage issue becomes more likely.
SOFT face/dead blow hammering MAY help if done correctly. The initial movement is the most difficult to achieve. If sheave not FULLY into low speed position, force in that direction may help get it moving.
control sheave stuck
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JPG
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange