Carriage Stop Ring, & Blade "Zero"

[keakap]

Went out and got a $0.61 1 1/2" pvc coupler and cut it as shown below. I mazde one 1 3/8" for Mark V and and 3/8" for Mark 5. I cut out about 1 1/8" to allow on/off. The ends needed to be ground to remove the high spots b4 cutting. Band saw made quick work of it.

[ATTACH]9132[/ATTACH]

But what did you use to glue the way tube back together?

;-)

[keakap]

On that ring, I sliced the ring from end to end with a sharp knife. Now I can use the ring - or not, as desired. It just slips over the way tube - or off. I secure it with a strip of electrical tape.[/font]

I may do this. It will solve my problem with the damaged old ring, which is no longer fit for crash duty, and would be fine for any non-zero clearance uses, where I'd use the quill feed as Dusty suggests.

Thanks for verifying the correct part #.

[keakap]

tic).
Is this the turtle neck effect?
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Wondered how the PO created that effect!

The turtle neck effect was rather amazing if you've never seen it, especially considering the rather stiff "feel" of the bagel. It was actually folded over on itself, to actually about half the normal length.
Also remarkably to me, after a day or so it had "restored" itself and un-flipped.

[JPG]

[quote="keakap"]But what did you use to glue the way tube back together?

]
The 'tube' in the pix is actually a spacer tube off a belt sander. They be the same size.

If the legend be true, the use of the same size tube for the belt sander was so as to salvage damaged(bent...) way tubes rather than pitching them!

P.S. I have come to understand that the tubing which as raw material comes in 25' lengths, but only 18' is guaranteed straight. So maybe that is the source of the 'need'.

[keakap]

If the legend be true, the use of the same size tube for the belt sander was so as to salvage damaged(bent...) way tubes rather than pitching them!
P.S. I have come to understand that the tubing which as raw material comes in 25' lengths, but only 18' is guaranteed straight. So maybe that is the source of the 'need'.

This is the very kind of stuff that makes TV shows like "How It's Made" successful, or Cliff Claven's excellent show "Made in America".

[keakap]

By the way, recently made another discovery re these stop collars and ZCI.
When I installed the PP headstock I also installed two newly acquired identically sized Stop Collars, one on each tube as a little more collision insurance in the possible case of another unplanned carriage to headstock meeting.
Whut I just found is that the carriage stops in different places depending on which tube has the collar. In other words, a 'removable' stop collar will position the headstock-to-carriage in one place when on the front tube, and a different place when on the rear. The headstock shape is asymmetrical in that respect.

Switching a collar front to back can wreak havoc with a ZCI.

I allow the possibility that this unit is unique. Nuttin surprises me anymore.

[JPG]

By the way, recently made another discovery re these stop collars and ZCI.
When I installed the PP headstock I also installed two newly acquired identically sized Stop Collars, one on each tube as a little more collision insurance in the possible case of another unplanned carriage to headstock meeting.
Whut I just found is that the carriage stops in different places depending on which tube has the collar. In other words, a 'removable' stop collar will position the headstock-to-carriage in one place when on the front tube, and a different place when on the rear. The headstock shape is asymmetrical in that respect.

Switching a collar front to back can wreak havoc with a ZCI.

I allow the possibility that this unit is unique. Nuttin surprises me anymore.

Considering the carriage and headstock castings are neither precision surfaces and the 'stops' are rubber and from your experience not dimensioned precisely either, I ain't surprised!;)

[Fred Grover]

Ok guys. Dumb question here but here it goes anyway. I have the smaller rubber collar on the tube and there is a wider rubber collar too. I think the wider one is the one that is supposed to be on the tube with the table upgraded to the 510. Would that be correct ?

Also, out of curiosity if I was to not just cut that wider collar to put it on if that is the one needed and just pull the Power Head (For Mark V not the new one) off and put the rubber collar on and the Power Head Back on would anything need to be aligned on the Power Head (For the Mark V not the new one) or would it keep it's alignment and everything?

Thanks and to let everyone know I would like to say thank you for the help on the Allen Screw for the Quill Shaft as it is now replaced and the Quill Shaft cleaned and waxed and working great. I appreciate all of your guys help and suggestions.

[dusty]

Ok guys. Dumb question here but here it goes anyway. I have the smaller rubber collar on the tube and there is a wider rubber collar too. I think the wider one is the one that is supposed to be on the tube with the table upgraded to the 510. Would that be correct ?

Also, out of curiosity if I was to not just cut that wider collar to put it on if that is the one needed and just pull the Power Head (For Mark V not the new one) off and put the rubber collar on and the Power Head Back on would anything need to be aligned on the Power Head (For the Mark V not the new one) or would it keep it's alignment and everything?

Thanks and to let everyone know I would like to say thank you for the help on the Allen Screw for the Quill Shaft as it is now replaced and the Quill Shaft cleaned and waxed and working great. I appreciate all of your guys help and suggestions.

The wider stop collar belongs on a Mark V Model 505 or 510 or 520. The narrower stop collar belongs with earlier model machines.

[JPG]

I do not see any reason to 'cut' the wider one.

Remove the narrow one.

Rather than remove the headstock, just cut/saw/rip the narrow one off.

Just to make sure we be speaking of the same thing, the older one is about 3/8" long and the newer one is about 1 3/8" long.

P.S. I would not cut the one that is to be used to 'install' it. There should be no 'aligning' required.

P.P.S. Referring to the 'Mark V not the new one' has me confused. The carriage and table differ from the older Mark 5/V 500 vs the newer Mark V/505-520, but the headstock(power head) is the same externally.