Shopsmith Forums

SDSSmith wrote:Five gallons, now that would go real well with your kerosene. Try this: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1AJC7

Probably last longer though! That item is not in my 6 yr old paper catalog!

I think compressor crankcase oil is more suitable for jig saw crankcase use.

Neither is "#10 Machine Oil" as originally 'specified'.

Hi,

The last time I purchased the jig saw oil I got it at Ace hardware, that was a few years back but that might be another place to try.

I really don't think the jig saw would mind a non-detergent 10w30 for that matter.

Ed

reible wrote:Hi,

The last time I purchased the jig saw oil I got it at Ace hardware, that was a few years back but that might be another place to try.

I really don't think the jig saw would mind a non-detergent 10w30 for that matter.

Ed

That would depend upon how 'hot' it ran. Sure would beat a dry crankcase for sure!

Not sure how the nylon(or whatever it is) would react to heavier oils.

beeg wrote:Check out this post.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=52651&postcount=6

I stopped at Lowe's yesterday and bought a 16oz. bottle of non-detergent air compressor oil for less than $3 and Advance Auto had a 10" x 32" roll of cork gasket material for $6. The bone dry reservoir now has 3oz. of oil in it and the jigsaw runs quiet and smooth.

sbm wrote:I stopped at Lowe's yesterday and bought a 16oz. bottle of non-detergent air compressor oil for less than $3 and Advance Auto had a 10" x 32" roll of cork gasket material for $6. The bone dry reservoir now has 3oz. of oil in it and the jigsaw runs quiet and smooth.

Good! You now be in business!

You did allow for the air bleed hole when making the gasket did you not!

If not, come back for explanation!

I'm back JPG.

Air bleed hole?

I did not notice anythng like that in the original gasket, which I traced.

sbm wrote:I'm back JPG.

Air bleed hole?

I did not notice anythng like that in the original gasket, which I traced.

Did you cut the 'cloverleaf' shape around the mounting bolt holes? They are there(in great abundance[8x]) so that no matter what in orientation the gasket is mounted, the bleed hole is not covered up. The bleed hole is under the top right mounting bolt and goes back into the housing and meets a small hole in the exterior side. This allows the air pressure to equalize with barometric pressure variations.

If you merely traced the outside and did not cut out the center, ya need to do it over!

If ya now put a hole where it needs to be in the one already done, and position it so it will 'work' then only the oil is 'spilled'! The air needs a clear path from the bleed hole to the interior of the crankcase.

I thought I had a pix, but can't seem to find it!

Maybe this will help locate it.

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