headstock rebuild

[wa2crk]

Dusty;

14-3 for the POWER cord and 14-2 for the link from the DPDT switch to the motor as per original SS wiring.
Bill

[dusty]

[quote="wa2crk"]Dusty]Thank you for the reply. I am glad to hear that the more recent models have the safety ground in the power cord and I would hope that those which do not would get changed.

The probability of getting shocked by touching a metal chassis is extremely low unless that chassis is somewhere connected to a hot wire. Should that happen, well -- the odds reverse quickly.

I've been knocked on my keaster as a direct result of touching hot a chassis. It was at a radar site and not a piece of woodworking equipment but it feels the same.

[charlese]

...
I've been knocked on my keaster as a direct result of touching hot a chassis. It was at a radar site and not a piece of woodworking equipment but it feels the same.

Ah! the good ol' days!! Never really got knocked back from a chassis shock, but have had several tingles. The old metal chassis shelf radios for example. We all quickly learned that all you had to do to put an end to those shocks was to reverse the plug in the socket. That plug reversing technique was SOP in our electronics shop in the Army.

The worst tingles I ever had was when adjusting local oscillators in the receiver of a radio direction finder. These were cavity grid oscillators that had to be adjusted while hot. The outside of the oscillator was to be set while it was at minus 180 volts and it was a thumb screw operation. Man! It bit when my forearm would brush against the chassis. Since we had to keep our eyes on an oscilloscope, one hand was feeling for the thumbscrew and the other was in our pocket.

[dusty]

The hot chassis to which I referred and inappropriately touched was by design a floating chassis and by design was hot. It was supposedly protected from inadvertent contact but...well...not from deliberate, foolish, stupid acts are taken to disable safety measures.

We were having trouble fixing a malfunction and we took some steps to make measurements that were intended to be done only in the labs. Now I know why.

[robinson46176]

Most of my stuff in the houses and buildings was wired or rewired recently enough to be grounded. I do have one outlet in one barn (the only outlet in the barn) that was not grounded. I want to rewire the whole barn and have bought the stuff to do it. As an interim measure I use one of those little grounding adapters that most people seldom connect. I have a lead from it to a nearby steel water pipe and I plug in any three prong cord in that adapter. The two prongers go in the other hole.
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I will rewire the whole barn with EMT to protect the wiring from physical damage (especially horse chewing). It is a 4 horse stable now but power use is quite minor in it. just a few lights, a few fans, a fence charger (very low draw) and only rarely a hand held power tool for a short time. The whole thing will be GFCI and surge protected.
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Many years ago my father had quite a battle with a phone company installer (Bell back then) who insisted that he had to connect his ground wire to the sill-cock sticking out of the house foundation. My father finally had to lead him to the basement and show him how that spigot was connected only to a plastic pipe inside of the house. At that point he had no idea what to do so he called in and they had him drive a ground rod for the ground. Apparently he was not authorized to drive a ground rod on his own.

[JPG]

. . .


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Many years ago my father had quite a battle with a phone company installer (Bell back then) who insisted that he had to connect his ground wire to the sill-cock sticking out of the house foundation. My father finally had to lead him to the basement and show him how that spigot was connected only to a plastic pipe inside of the house. At that point he had no idea what to do so he called in and they had him drive a ground rod for the ground. Apparently he was not authorized to drive a ground rod on his own.

And he was connecting a ground for the 'station protector'. Sorta like a lightening suppressor.(spark gap). Yer telephone instruments are the 'station'. Where did he get the rod if he was not authorized to install one!?

[robinson46176]

And he was connecting a ground for the 'station protector'. Sorta like a lightening suppressor.(spark gap). Yer telephone instruments are the 'station'. Where did he get the rod if he was not authorized to install one!?

I always assumed that he was sort of new.
He had all of the stuff on the truck, he just didn't grasp the concept of plastic pipe in a house. When SOP couldn't be done he was just sort of lost.
In his defense this was about 1956 and plastic pipe was not very common yet. BTW, that pipe is still in use and as good as the day it went in. So is the same stuff we buried in several locations around the farm. I tapped into one of them not long ago and it was still perfect. On the other hand in the last few years I have had to finally abandon the last of the galvanized steel pipe we buried just before that time. I got tired of constantly digging it out and patching it.
In keeping with the ground talk I need an excellent ground for my electric fences (the fence, not the fence charger innards) and I am using the old abandoned galvanized water pipe system (hundreds of feet of it buried about 4' deep) as a ground.

[invaderjim]

I just picked up a Mk V that, if I believe the serial # on the gray headstock panel, not the green one, was built in 1981. It was only $150 for a reason. I used a lot of 00 and 0000 steel wool to make it look decent, the rpm control sticks and the table height clamp has no lever. Im currently surfing for arbors and attachments. I'm thinking that I should at least acquire a band saw and joiner. Maybe that conical sander and 12" velcro sander as well....I dont know how to start a new thread so I'm shamelessly hijacking this one.

[JPG]

I just picked up a Mk V that, if I believe the serial # on the gray headstock panel, not the green one, was built in 1981. It was only $150 for a reason. I used a lot of 00 and 0000 steel wool to make it look decent, the rpm control sticks and the table height clamp has no lever. Im currently surfing for arbors and attachments. I'm thinking that I should at least acquire a band saw and joiner. Maybe that conical sander and 12" velcro sander as well....I dont know how to start a new thread so I'm shamelessly hijacking this one.

The serial number is usually on a shiney perforated plate surrounding the middle 'rear' shaft. or a sticker under it. If it be gray(silver?) and green, it is probably much older and is identified on the headstock as a Mark 5. If that be the case, there are differences from newer models that you need to beware of.

[invaderjim]

That's my problem, the unit came with two rear covers. The whole thing is gray, except the spare rear cover that is green and a tube end that is green. Im guessing he picked these up somewhere and handed them off to me when I bought it.