Shopsmith Forums

reible wrote:Hi,

How about I make a prediction?

I think that there will be a slight difference in the wheels and that amount of difference will be enough that the two will end up not staying in the relationship that you expect them to. I'd say give it a try but mark the wheels so it will be easy to see if they stay in sync or not.

The idea has me interested enough that I'll test it on my bandsaw...

Ed

And I would say that I am sure that you are absolutely right.

robinson46176 wrote:And I would say that I am sure that you are absolutely right.

Ditto!

Also you will not be able to tell they have shifted without the marks!

Balance is desirable, but perfection is not necessary at these slow speeds.

i'm sure you guys are right about the orientation and lack of balance being a problem at the lower speeds.... i'll get the camera out this afternoon and take some pics. the only thing left to do to the bandsaw is mount the tires, true up the blocks and reassemble everything. then its on to the power head for checks and maintenance.

thanks again for the help and advice! bill

heathicus wrote:You may be right, JPG. I got my info, not from a long history and deep knowledge of Shopsmith tools (and I didn't even sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night), but from an article I happened to have read just the other day!

http://www.tool-hunter.com/shopsmith-posts/shopsmith-ads/magna-introduces-the-shopsmith-11-bandsaw-and-the-magna-tilting-arbor-tablesaw-article

Not to change the subject, but I thought SINGLE purpose tool was not something I dreamed up!(The 'S" has become 'special' of late)

I 'see' where you got the 'graphic'!

I do not observe the conical/tapered outer wheel surface as depicted on my bandsaw.

Either it used to be that way, or The author took liberties with reality to illustrate the 'difference' from a typical band saw.]

I haven't spent a night there either!:D

Before lunch today I was adjusting a bandsaw that I just picked up yesterday that was terribly misaligned. So much so, that I can't see how it could have been used for any length of time without destroying the upper blade guide mechanism. In any event, I'd like to clarify a point about which bearings contact that blade while the bandsaw is running but not cutting wood. The blade contacts the auto-track roller bearing (the double bearing located near the tension scale) and the lower blade guide bearing (located under the table). The upper blade guide bearing is positioned away from the blade no more than 1/64" and should not turn when the saw is running and not cutting wood. When cutting wood, the blade will press against the upper bearing and cause it to spin.

pennview wrote:Before lunch today I was adjusting a bandsaw that I just picked up yesterday that was terribly misaligned. So much so, that I can't see how it could have been used for any length of time without destroying the upper blade guide mechanism. In any event, I'd like to clarify a point about which bearings contact that blade while the bandsaw is running but not cutting wood. The blade contacts the auto-track roller bearing (the double bearing located near the tension scale) and the lower blade guide bearing (located under the table). The upper blade guide bearing is positioned away from the blade no more than 1/64" and should not turn when the saw is running and not cutting wood. When cutting wood, the blade will press against the upper bearing and cause it to spin.

YES! I would add that the blade upper bearing should be consistent at all positions(up/down) of the upper blade guide assembly. That adjustment is NOT easy!!!!!

brick1 wrote:most other bandsaw forums tell us to make sure our wheels are balanced...as much as possible. these shopsmith wheels are drilled on one side and are nowhere near balanced!! is there a specfic reason these are drilled out of balance????

should i put the drilled areas facing each other, or opposite???

thanks, bill

Can't help but wonder the speed you were running the saw to get the unbalanced feel? I seriously doubt that rotating the position of the wheels would change any balance issue. I have removed the upper wheel a number of times and have never paid attention to the rotation of that wheel as compared to the lower one.

Once again, I would be very surprised to find the wheels out of balance. There is most likely something else going on. These could be the blade or the bearings.

i took some pics this afternoon and am going to make an attempt to post.
the pic of the wheel shows the partial holes drilled on one side only. after i got everything cleaned and freshened up, the wheels spun freely without the blade on and when they came to a stop, they always kept going, or went back to the partial holes at the top, or, the heavy side down. i balance r/c props this way.

brick1 wrote:i took some pics this afternoon and am going to make an attempt to post.
the pic of the wheel shows the partial holes drilled on one side only. after i got everything cleaned and freshened up, the wheels spun freely without the blade on and when they came to a stop, they always kept going, or went back to the partial holes at the top, or, the heavy side down. i balance r/c props this way.

Looks like the 'balancer' went 'overbored'. pun intended! If you are concerned, add weight to the side opposite the heavy point. I doubt it will run much differently though.

I would not add (or remove) weight to the wheel without knowing what the design requirements for "balance of the wheel" are. I have found nowhere in the Users Manuals where it says that the user should verify wheel balance. If it was appropriate that this be done, I believe the manual would so state.

I'd try very hard not to act like an engineer in these matters even if I was one. We have not been provided with the technical data required to do such things correctly.

Do you have a specific performance problem, like excessive vibration, that has started you on this quest or did you just notice the drilled out areas and this made you curious about wheel balance?