Shopsmith Forums

Just a few points points.

The question is what do a hand plane, a jointer, a router table set up as a joint, a shaper table set up to joint, and even a table saw with a jointer blade all have in common? They are set up with the cutter being referenced to the edge being worked on is what.

This is in contrast to sanding disk operations and surface planner operations... where is the control surface??? In both of these cases the control surface is on the non cutting edge.

Ed

tango wrote:So if you had to choose only one which would you choose? I really need one, but I'm not sure which is a better purchase. Doesn't a planer do basically the same thing as a jointer only on a grander scale?

It seems to me that a jointer is limited to about 6" while a planer can handle up to 12" (for a bench top model), wouldn't it be better to have a planer and use it as a jointer?

If you use rough wood, you truly need both.

dusty wrote:When using the conical disk to true an edge, do you not need to have a true edge to start with. The conical, it seems to me, simply provides an edge that is parallel to the fence when used with a conical disk.

You can do this without a "true edge" by attaching your rough piece of wood to a board that does have a true edge and run it against the fence while creating a true edge on your work piece with the conical sander.

Almost all my woodworking is with rough sawn boards. (WoodMizer) Many of these boards have their natural edges, some with bark still on.

My first step is to draw a straight line close to the edge. Then using the bandsaw with a 5/8" blade, and ball bearing roller stands to support the board on infeed and outfeed sides, I can cut down the line with astounding straightness. I can then take the board to the table saw and rip it somewhat wider than my finished dimensions.

Next, I clamp the board on my workbench and with winding sticks and hand planes I remove any twist or other imprefections. I don't finish the whole surface, just merely prep it for the planer, which then gives me a flat board with two finished surfaces.

The Jointer then is used to straighten the previously cut edge square with the sides. My 4" Shopsmith jointer is only used for jointing edges. Using roller stands carefully leveled with the infeed and outfeed of the jointer, I have jointed boards over 100 inches long. If I'm gluing long boards, I usually take the board back to the workbench, clamp it with the jointed edge up, and take a #5 hand plane, set to remove very thin shavings, and in about three strokes working toward the center, remove enough wood to create a little "spring" in the middle. Thus when the boards are clamped and guled, the ends are very tight.

Thus I have no need for a 2000 lb 10' long jointer, even if I had enough space for such a monster. Nor do I need to build (and store somewhere) elaborate jigs to use a router to flatten a surface. The hand plane work is surprisingly quick and easy...........enjoyable too.

a1gutterman wrote:You can do this without a "true edge" by attaching your rough piece of wood to a board that does have a true edge and run it against the fence while creating a true edge on your work piece with the conical sander.

Great point Tim. Same method as when using the table saw with a wavy / crooked edge.

I do not understand how any craftsman can successfully work without jointing the wood.

A planer is nice but many many precious and finely crafted pieces of furniture was built with wood that isn't uniform thicknes and only jointed on face side.

A planer is nice to have but most wood today is sold already planned. Yes you can make adjustments and I won't argue that all wood is planned to the same thickness.

Many say the tablesaw is the most important piece of equipment in the shop but I believe the jointer is.

Watch any craftsmen build they start out with a level surface and build on it. Without a jointing you can't get the level surface. You have to have a jointer. NOW it can be a power Jointer or a hand jointing plane.

Again if your building with a jointing the wood I submit you build substandard pieces.

Therefore I say a jointer either power or hand is a MUST in the shop.

I built for 30 years without power planner.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I do not understand how any craftsman can successfully work without jointing the wood.

A planer is nice but many many precious and finely crafted pieces of furniture was built with wood that isn't uniform thicknes and only jointed on face side.

A planer is nice to have but most wood today is sold already planned. Yes you can make adjustments and I won't argue that all wood is planned to the same thickness.

Many say the tablesaw is the most important piece of equipment in the shop but I believe the jointer is.

Watch any craftsmen build they start out with a level surface and build on it. Without a jointing you can't get the level surface. You have to have a jointer. NOW it can be a power Jointer or a hand jointing plane.

Again if your building with a jointing the wood I submit you build substandard pieces.

Therefore I say a jointer either power or hand is a MUST in the shop.

I built for 30 years without power planner.

I agree, ED. In my training you always started with "face side" and "face edge" and went from there (when fitting straight parts anyway)

Paul M

Ed in Tampa wrote:I do not understand how any craftsman can successfully work without jointing the wood.

A planer is nice but many many precious and finely crafted pieces of furniture was built with wood that isn't uniform thicknes and only jointed on face side.

A planer is nice to have but most wood today is sold already planned. Yes you can make adjustments and I won't argue that all wood is planned to the same thickness.

Many say the tablesaw is the most important piece of equipment in the shop but I believe the jointer is.

Watch any craftsmen build they start out with a level surface and build on it. Without a jointing you can't get the level surface. You have to have a jointer. NOW it can be a power Jointer or a hand jointing plane.

Again if your building with a jointing the wood I submit you build substandard pieces. By whose standard?

Therefore I say a jointer either power or hand is a MUST in the shop.

I built for 30 years without power planner.

The rules (standards) are not the same for all craftsmen or for all projects!

I agree with Ed, the jointer is essential.

When I bought my Goldie back in the 60's I opted to get the jointer and for dimensioning, the Wagner Safe-T-Planer. Both have served me well. I bought a SS planer about a year ago (just upgraded to a Power Planer) however I still revert to the Safe-T-Planer to mill one flat side on rough cut lumber to prep for the planer.

Dick

dusty wrote:The rules (standards) are not the same for all craftsmen or for all projects!

Dusty
All crafts have to start somewhere. Yes I guess you can start with something that isn't flat and level but whatever you build will reflect that.

Look into a old piece of furniture. I have seen dressers that were built with not one piece of wood that same thickness as the next. The outside was perfectly smooth (jointed) but the inside revealed panels made up of different thicknesses of wood. The drawer fronts were perfectly matched to the front of the dresser but if you examined them each was slightly thicker or thinner than the other.

The craftsman jointed the wood (edge and surface) and built upon it. Because he was starting with flat and level he was able to build the rest of the dresser to be very pleasing to the eye.